Stark contrasts and juxtapositions are reigning in Paris, and Rabanne’s latest Spring/Summer 2025 collection further proves this. Playing on the feminine vs masculine, informal vs formal, and prints vs plain textiles, Julien Dossena’s new show was rich in textures, colours, and relaxed silhouettes. Photographer Erwan Filidori was there to capture the magic of it all backstage.
You may had already heard about Rabanne’s presentation before it started. The show had already generated some buzz among fashionistas because, in addition to the clothes, the brand was presenting ‘the most expensive bag in the world’: the nano 1969, made in collaboration with French jeweller Arthus Bertrand and selling for 250,000 euros, made entirely of 18-karat gold and which took over a hundred hours of work to make. Impressive.
But it wasn’t the only one. Joining the family were also the 1960 glass bag, made of Murano glass discs produced by Venetian glassmaker Venini; and the 1960 ceramic bag, handcrafted with ceramic discs from the centuries-old Parisian workshop Astier de Villatte. After Coperni presented its Meteorite bag, and with the ongoing price war (of who’s more expensive, that is) between Chanel and Hermès, it seems like someone else is joining the party of going beyond the over-the-top.
Flashy news aside, Rabanne’s latest collection catered to a woman who’s sure of herself and embraces her contradictions. Well, more than contradictions, her busy schedule: she needs to go grocery shopping and to the office, but she also needs to shine at events like weddings, birthday parties, and more. And she can do all of these with Julien Dossena’s proposal. The multi-layered opening look, with a mix and match of stripes, features wide bermuda shorts, a boxy t-shirt, a more formal shirt, and a parka—perfect for the everyday. And the second look, also playing with layers, sees a glimmering silver mini dress styled with a stripped shirt and an oversized blazer, bridging the codes of day and nightwear.
With an inescapable past rooted in ‘60s Space Age, Rabanne also presented lots of shiny, metallic pieces: mini dresses meticulously handcrafted, but also metallic knitwear (that oversized green jumper is to die for!), slip dresses, gowns, embroidered on the lapels of blazers, or even the inside lining of a parka. There were also lots of florals (for spring? You know the rest), both printed and embroidered on tulle, which contrasted with the more masculine-presenting silhouettes. Paired together (the florals, the metallics, the stripes) and well-styled, they all made sense somehow, especially in the mature yet playful way the collection was presented.
