Marta Gos is accentuating men's expressions through a fine use of volumes, and using patterns to define the essential character of a unique silhouette. Based in London, with her eponymous label and in collaboration with Martyna Sobczak for Lapidarium, Marta is aiming to find a sustainable approach to fashion in the era of mass consumption we live in. With both menswear and womenswear, the young designer is contributing to give alternatives to the industrial way of approaching fashion.
You have a very accurate eye for shapes and volumes. How do you identify the importance of such aspects in your designs?
I think shape and volume are important components of a silhouette design. An accurate shape can create a massive difference in the perception of a body.
From your perspective, what is essential for a man's silhouette?
The perfect cut and fit are the key aspects. A man can wear a beautiful jacket or trousers made of a high-quality fabric, but if the cut is wrong or not proportionate to this male body, the outcome may be completely different than expected.
Do you have any male figure in mind when creating?
Not necessarily, I think more about the guy who would like to wear it, what kind of personality and interests he has.
The use of certified organic fabrics, recycled and upcycled materials are important elements of your creations. Can you give us more details on how you got into it?
I have been into sustainable fashion quite a few years, but since my graduation I got really involved in using recycled and organic fabrics only. I want all our collections to be transparent in the choice of fabrics.
With Lapidarium, in collaboration with Martyna Sobczak, you are also exploring womenswear. How are you experiencing designing for both genders?
Our womenswear brand Lapidarium is partly inspired by menswear, and I find my menswear pieces also inspired by womenswear. I think they mix sometimes, however, we always think about the differences in body shapes. We find both womenswear and menswear exciting, and we try to show a bit of subtle sexuality in our designs for both genders.
Abstract patterns and prints are integral parts of your aesthetic. Why is it something you have used so much in your garments?
Patterns and textures are the integral part of my design aesthetics. We –as Lapidarium– are always inspired by the organic world around us, patterns that we can see in the fauna and flora of our everyday life. For my menswear projects I’ve also used a lot of vivid print combinations or abstract textures – I think it is a part of me that has always been visible in my designs.
Who are the contemporary artists currently influencing you?
I am still quite inspired by the graffuturism movement. Recently, I have also found exciting Marie Lund's sculptures and the work of Isabel Yellin, a recent graduate of the RCA, whose fabrics I find beautifully tactile and sensitive.
Fashion evolves along our society, reflecting cultural changes. What are your thoughts when designing your collections?
I think the biggest change we are going towards to is, hopefully, more sustainable and ethical approaches to fashion. We are entering times where serious players of the world’s economy are finally starting to change their attitudes and thinking how to earn money from sustainability as well, not promising fake ideas, but actually putting the smart ones into real life. I’ve been interested in sustainable fashion for many years and I’ve always wanted to create my collections within this framework, especially developing different fabrications and opening for new, exciting ideas.
What are your future projects within menswear?
As Lapidarium we are currently developing our womenswear line, however, if it keeps going well, we are planning to create a menswear collection for AW17. I miss menswear a lot.
