I imagine an Oxford professor who has ventured into the world of fashion, always tasteful, always timeless. This is one of those collections that doesn’t immediately demand your attention. But look closer and you begin to uncover the details hidden beneath its apparent simplicity. Subtle nuances, considered construction, and an impeccable level of craftsmanship are unexpectedly brought to life through fringe, crochet, layering, gathered fabrics, knots, and, above all, that iconic Bottega Veneta intrecciato, reinterpreted in a relaxed, undone way, deliberately left unfinished.
The first thing that comes to mind when seeing the Spring/Summer 2027 collection is craftsmanship, Louise Trotter’s refined eye for design and construction. Everything is so impeccably executed that the quality speaks for itself. It’s the kind of craftsmanship you immediately recognise—understated, precise, and quietly screaming luxury. It’s already an extraordinary challenge to establish such a strong handmade signature across an entire collection, accessories included. But stepping into Bottega Veneta makes that challenge even greater. It is a House shaped by some of the most distinctive and recognisable creative directors in fashion, each leaving their own unmistakable mark. For Trotter, establishing her own language within such a legacy is no small task.
We’ve had the chance to see a collection that, much like the great designer she is, feels determined to showcase the full breadth of what Trotter is capable of creating. So, although this is technically a Spring/Summer collection, we’re also treated to coats and transitional looks—and what a pleasure it is to see them. Every single look carries the same sense of sensitivity in the way textures, materials, and finishes are brought together. Everything feels considered, beautifully executed, and, most importantly, completely at ease with one another. Nothing feels out of place.
Getting into the collection itself, it’s worth looking at a few key looks and their evolution. The opening looks feel more compact and covered-up, with beautiful coats and tailored jackets setting the tone. There’s more fabric to work with, allowing Trotter to play with weight and volume, introducing knots, gathers, and crumpled textures in the chicest and most sophisticated way. The colour palette is more muted, but by no means less beautiful. At times, however, some of the looks feel slightly too repetitive, with certain ideas being revisited perhaps one too many times.
Then comes what feels like a second chapter of the show, and this is where things become particularly interesting. We start to see a different side of the collection: pastel tones, fluid silhouettes, open-work crochet, and lighter, beautiful handmade details begin to take centre stage. These looks feel more effortless and unexpected, allowing the craftsmanship to become even more visible and giving the collection a refreshing sense of lightness. One in particular deserves a special mention: the printed look with printed fringe. It’s incredible to watch in motion—light, fluid, and full of movement. Every single fringe is perfectly placed and meticulously stitched, creating a sense of rhythm as the look moves down the runway. It’s a brilliant example of how something as familiar as fringe can be elevated.
The styling here is spot on. Everything feels balanced and perfectly in sync, allowing the craftsmanship and movement of the look to speak for themselves. In other looks, however, there’s perhaps a little too much information competing for attention. At times, even the bags add another layer that makes the overall styling feel slightly overworked.
Speaking of bags, they’re one of the most important, if not the most important, elements of any Bottega Veneta show. Leather goods are at the very heart of the House and remain one of its main pillars. And while they’re undeniably beautiful, featuring the brand’s recognisable intrecciato, there’s still room to push the silhouettes further. But some of them are worth the hype. Let’s take the one recreating a newspaper through the intrecciato technique. Paired with the bag, it transforms something ordinary into something elevated, quintessentially Bottega. And then there’s the men’s headband. Incredible. The way it’s integrated so naturally into a look and, even more interestingly, into a distinctly masculine look, feels unexpected and brilliantly executed.
Ultimately, one of the collection’s greatest strengths was the ease with which it blurred the line between masculine and feminine. The clothes felt inherently unisex, with gender treated as secondary to craftsmanship, quality, and longevity. Each look retained its elegance regardless of who wore it, allowing the design to speak for itself without the need for categorisation.
That same coherence extended beyond the clothes. From the casting and Kendall Jenner’s closing look to the resin-coated cardboard stools created by Illya Goldman Gubin, every element reflected ideas of individuality and human touch. The stools’ interlocking flaps subtly recalled Bottega Veneta’s intrecciato technique, while the physical imprint left by the artist made each one unique. Together with Louise Trotter’s considered designs, these details reinforced a clear vision of craftsmanship not simply as a technique, but as the essence of the House.
