Yesterday morning, guests gathered at Statens Museum for Kunst for one of Copenhagen Fashion Week’s most anticipated debuts. Institution, the Georgian label led by Galib Gassanoff and this year’s recipient of the Zalando Visionary Award, presented its Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Yad, to a room filled with editors, buyers and creatives from around the world. Before a single look appeared, though, the atmosphere had already been set. Traditional Georgian carpets covered the runway, offering the first glimpse into the story Gassanoff was about to tell.
It immediately reminded us of the conversation we had with the designer back in March, shortly after he was announced as the Zalando Visionary Award winner. When we asked him about craftsmanship, he didn’t start talking about clothes. He spoke about carpets. “I grew up surrounded by carpets, playing on them, sleeping with their patterns around me on the walls and floors, and washing them barefoot in cold summer water.” Yesterday, those memories became part of the show itself.
Anyone familiar with Institution knows that personal history sits at the centre of the brand. Gassanoff draws from Georgian craftsmanship and everyday traditions, but never treats them like museum pieces. They become something new through shape and construction, making every collection feel deeply personal without looking backwards. That approach felt right at home in Copenhagen. This season marks the twentieth anniversary of Copenhagen Fashion Week, which, like METAL, was founded in 2006. Walking into the venue yesterday, it was clear just how international the week has become, with industry insiders arriving from around the world.
One detail we particularly appreciated was how naturally Institution fitted into the official calendar. The Zalando Visionary Award doesn’t place its winner in a separate showcase or dedicate a special day to the project. Instead, the collection becomes part of the fashion week itself. Yesterday, Institution showed just ahead of Stine Goya, making it feel like another highlight of the schedule instead of an isolated award presentation.
Only a few weeks ago, we were in Tbilisi for the latest edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tbilisi , where conversations around craftsmanship and local identity came up again and again. Seeing those same ideas present and equally strong in Copenhagen created an unexpected link between the two cities. The carpets, the handmade techniques and the references to everyday rituals all carried that connection onto the runway.
Yad, which means both ‘foreigner’ and ‘memory’ in Azerbaijani, explored ideas of belonging through material and making. Gassanoff worked with artisans from the Georgian communities where he grew up, incorporating handcrafted knitwear, sculptural cotton cord pieces and techniques passed down through generations. The result felt modern from beginning to end, with every traditional reference finding its place naturally within the collection.
Models walked barefoot wearing handcrafted jorabs, reflecting the Caucasian tradition of removing shoes before entering a home. Together with the carpets covering the floor, those gestures made the show feel surprisingly intimate without ever becoming theatrical. The clothes followed the same idea. Tailoring, knitwear and handcrafted textures came together in a collection that felt considered without becoming overworked.
In the end, Yad did exactly what a debut of this scale should do. It introduced many people to Galib Gassanoff’s world while leaving little doubt that Institution deserves to be part of the conversation. For Zalando, it also felt like another reminder that backing young talent is one thing, but recognising the right talent is something else entirely.
