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The last time we spoke to Olga Vasyukova, the founder and creative director of Red September, was in November 2020. In the last two and a half years, since she launched her Spring/Summer 2021 Kidult collection, a lot has changed. We have overcome a global pandemic, not knowing what our destiny would be. International conflicts have escalated in a way that no one could have expected, and the way of seeing life has changed for many people. But there is something that remains intact, the freedom on which Vasyukova builds her fashion brand, and she now presents her Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collection, Vacuum.

When we interviewed Olga for the first time, back in 2019, she told us that she did not believe in inspiration. “Only hard work, perfect time management and a clear deadline can give you a good result,” she responded with determination when we asked her about those elements that influenced her work, those that caught her attention and went transferred through her own language in the form of self-expression, honesty, quality of clothing, attention to cut, materials and comfort. Essential components in her vision of fashion that, of course, are still intact in her latest release, Vacuum.

Based on this term defined by the Cambridge Dictionary as “a space from which most or all of the matter has been removed, or where there is little or no matter,” Red September delves into the emotions that 2022, a very turbulent year in recent history, has awakened. The sense of friendly community that seemed unshakable seems to have partly vanished. Or at least it has mutated, calling into question what we believed to be stable and the existence as a whole. “The ‘community’ has been replaced by the ‘bubble phenomenon’: everyone is alone, fenced off from the outside world. Detached, in complete isolation and confusion,” they say from the brand.

This new collection is an ode to peace, resilience and the belief that together we are stronger. It's a direct invitation to reconnect with oneself and with those around us, give importance to what is truly important and join forces instead of fighting against each other to make the world a better place. And this message is translated into the garments that make up Vacuum, turning off the colour and also favouring a more voluminous style for practical purposes. This launch calls for collaboration and integration, and it does so through hoodies and puffer jackets which make you want to wrap up, hide, and wear multi-layered outfits. It's a major demonstration that fashion with a message, the one that replaces words with meaningful aesthetics sending a universal message, leaves a mark.

David Alarcón

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