Fashion season is on! Menswear has taken over the streets of Milan, Italy's hub of high fashion and unapologetic pretension, to present the first collections of the year. And as always, we bring you our curated list of highlights. From PDF’s streetwear-meets-sportswear nostalgia to Prada’s playful contradictions redefining the modern man, or Jordanluca’s punk-infused wedding on the runway and Dhruv Kapoor’s homage to Indian street style, Milan Fashion Week didn’t disappoint.
Dhruv Kapoor
No stranger to Milan Fashion Week and no stranger to our top selections, Dhruv Kapoor took the runway once again to show his Fall/Winter 2025 collection, demonstrating a refined evolution in his design language. Building upon past successes, including a notable Godzilla collaboration and a unique exploration of luxury through an Indian lens, Kapoor's latest offering delved into the heart of everyday India. Street style, in all its multifaceted glory, served as the collection's muse, inspiring intricate prints, embroideries, and thoughtful details that pay homage to his roots.
The collection featured new silhouettes, such as co-ord suits layered over vibrant floral jackets, shirts adorned with yoga-inspired motifs, bringing a touch of Indian mysticism to the runway, and, of course, saris. The result? A sophisticated mix of Indian heritage and modern streetwear.
PDF
Following, we have PDF's (Project Domenico Formichetti) collection, United Jam, and how would we describe it? A game between streetwear and high-performance sportswear. Drawing inspiration from the golden age of hip-hop and cult films like Boyz n the Hood, the collection revitalised iconic 90s silhouettes. Baggy jerseys, oversized denim, and chunky boots were reimagined with modern cuts and luxurious fabrics, while technical elements borrowed from snowboarding uniforms added a layer of unexpected sophistication.
A key element of the collection was its focus on hybridity. Garments seamlessly merged street style with elements of outdoor gear, creating unique and unexpected silhouettes. For example, a technical jacket might feature bold graffiti prints, or a pair of baggy jeans might be crafted from a durable, weather-resistant fabric.
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Jordanluca
Getting married after the show? Now that's new! Jordanluca's collection was a love manifesto, not just between themselves but towards fashion as well. The show that culminated in the surprise wedding of designers Jordan Bower and Luca Marchetto after fifteen years together was a celebration of love in all its forms—romantic, platonic, and the love for one's passions. This sentiment resonated through and through, from the casting, which featured both rising fashion stars and the couple's closest friends and family, reflecting the deeply personal nature of the presentation.
The collection, while undeniably rooted in the brand's punk DNA, saw a pronounced focus on British heritage. The show celebrated the craftsmanship of esteemed English and Scottish weavers, including their craft into reimagined classics like duffle coats, raincoats, and double-belted trench coats, and adding a twist with leather jackets, graphic shirts, and more. Accessories showcased a striking blend of classicism and avant-garde, with highlights including leather wedges for women and interpretations of men's Oxford flats, all of them reimagined into a modern punk ethos.
Prada
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons always know how to take over Milan Fashion Week, and on this occasion they delivered a class in bold, instinctive creativity. Rejecting over-analysis, the duo focused on raw emotion and spontaneity, offering a collection that celebrated the unpredictable nature of human expression. “Emotion and immediacy, creativity without overthinking,” Prada remarked at the show notes, setting the tone for a collection that redefined the art of getting dressed as an intuitive, deeply personal act.
Prada’s modern man emerged as a romantic figure, his wardrobe reflecting the beautifully unpredictable energy of self-expression. The collection was a playful exploration of contradictions: big overcoats and no shirts underneath, basic tops paired with formal loafers, checked shirts and striped cotton robes reimagined as outerwear; it was like a modern man took all of Prada’s iconic archives into the streets, that man being probably Raf.
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Emporio Armani
Giorgio Armani, at 90 years old but feeling younger than ever, alongside his creative team, continues to push the boundaries of youthful style. His Emporio Armani menswear collection was a feast for the senses, a seductive exploration of texture and shimmering surfaces. Titled Seductive, the collection invited touch with its luxurious fabrics: velvet three-piece suits adorned with delicate watch chains, finely ribbed lurex knitwear that shimmered in the light, and plush corduroy pants pooling elegantly around rugged lug sole shoes. Urban explorers were well equipped with belted trenches, sleek oversized leather coats boasting daring slits for confident strides, and long, opulent faux furs. A touch of playful subversion emerged as silken scarves were artfully knotted like ties, creating an illusion of movement beneath tailored blazers.
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Zegna
Zegna transported Milan Fashion Week guests to a serene Australian hillside, a fitting tribute to the brand's heritage and the source of its finest wool. The Vellus Aureum show celebrated the enduring value of quality craftsmanship and timeless style. Models, including top actor John Turturro, now starring in Severance, strolled through the idyllic setting, showcasing a collection of deconstructed blazers, relaxed suits, and luxurious outerwear. The focus was on effortless elegance and timeless appeal, with an emphasis on comfortable yet refined pieces. The colour palette mirrored the natural surroundings, featuring earthy tones like fossil, ginepro, and serra. The collection also paid homage to Turin, Zegna's home city, with a focus on refined elegance and a cultured attitude.
Pierre-Louis Mascia
Pierre-Louis Mascia presented Bright Star, a collection inspired by the English poet John Keats, blending Victorian elegance with Renaissance influences and exotic touches. The collection showcased an interplay of textures and colours. Intricate prints, including 19th-century landscapes and ethnic motifs, adorned jackets, trousers, and shirts. Patchwork designs combined various fabrics, and ribbons and trimmings added playful accents. The overall effect was a harmonious blend of comfort and opulence, with flowing silhouettes and luxurious materials like silk, wool, and cashmere.
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Pronounce
Pronounce, the brand conceived by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, made its Milan Fashion Week debut with Romantic Sharpness, a collection that elegantly juxtaposed contrasting elements. Drawing inspiration from the brand's viral collaboration with Labubu, the collection explored themes of "hidden weapons and gentle warriors," blending images of swordsmen and desert landscapes with a surprisingly romantic aesthetic.
Key elements included three-dimensional ropes, hand-woven and braided, and the concept of protection, translated into armour-like silhouettes and shell-inspired details. Tailored wool and cashmere garments, contemporary Mao suits, and intricately knit ensembles were embellished with natural stones, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship. Collaborations with artist Lu Zheng (wooden bags) and creative team 998E (unconventional sunglasses) further elevated the collection.
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