It’s been a pretty busy week for fashion already. Kicking off January 12th and lasting until January 16th, Milan Fashion Week presented the new proposals for the Fall/Winter 2024 season in menswear. From renowned Italian brands like Prada, Emporio Armani, Gucci, Fendi or Zegna to independent designers and brands like JW Anderson, Jordanluca, Dhruv Kapoor, Federico Cina, we’ve seen it all: formal wear with a touch of punk, Dean Caten from Dsquared2 in full drag, or references to Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut. Here’s a round-up of the our favourite shows this season.
Prada’s menswear show masterfully captures the dichotomy between humanity’s longing for nature and its immersion in the corporate world. Through a meticulous blend of formality and outdoor practicality, the brand presented a compelling narrative of reconnecting with the natural world while embracing the structured elegance of office attire.
The set design artfully merged an office interior with a sprawling natural landscape, emphasising the coexistence and conflict between these two paradoxical worlds. As attendees entered the venue, they were greeted by a symbolic convergence of human-made structures and the unbridled freedom of nature. The collection’s ethos centred on the innate human yearning to connect with nature’s seasonal rhythms and elemental forces. Garments were designed to mirror and interact with their surroundings, reflecting a deep-rooted desire to remain tethered to the natural world, and urging individuals to embrace the genuine experiences offered by their environments.
The runway showcased a fusion of corporate elegance and outdoor practicality, epitomised by the ubiquitous presence of beanies, which offered a refreshing contrast to the muted office attire, while XL leather baggage and utilitarian-style waist bags complementing the structured looks. Prada’s take on power dressing was evident in the boxy, oversized blazers and cropped trousers, symbolising the rigidity of the corporate environment while hinting at the freedom of nature beneath the glass catwalk.
Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada’s collaborative vision was evident in the meticulous attention to detail, from the smart-casual combinations to the incorporation of contrasting knitted twin sets and utilitarian jackets – encouraging a sense of renewal and a fresh perspective on dressing.
JW Anderson
JW Anderson’s Men’s F/W 2024 and Women’s Pre-Fall 2024 collection is a tour de force of cinematic allure and daring design, evoking the mysterious world of Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut with an electrifying blend of sensuality and sophistication. The collection pays homage to Christiane Kubrick’s paintings, with her artworks printed on knitwear and adorning floor-length towel dresses and outsized knitwear. The incorporation of these paintings, including triptych knit jersey dresses and other pieces featuring domestic imagery, reflects Anderson’s intention to bring what was in the background to the foreground – emphasising the psychology behind the idea.
The British designer embraces the perversely domestic with a cinematic flair. The runway becomes a stage for a visual story, infusing each piece with a daring fusion of sexual allure and craftsmanship. With a nod to the film’s enigmatic atmosphere, the collection’s luxurious velvet, satin, and oversized proportions create an ambiance of opulent sensuality, mirroring the protagonist of the film and offering a compelling exploration of masculine sensuality.
Meanwhile, the women’s Pre-Fall line embraces a compelling and sexy plot twist, blurring the lines between sleepwear and evening wear, mirroring the film’s juxtaposition of allure and mystery. From floor-length dresses to knitwear, the collection brings to life the captivating allure and enigmatic themes of Eyes Wide Shut.
Let’s bring the runway gimmicks! Dean and Dan Caten presented their collection in the most outstanding way, delivering the literal representation of metamorphosis: twin models switching up into the ‘makeup machine’ and transforming the looks from rugged street style to sophisticated evening wear night statements.
Dsquared2’s collection blends raw and refined elements, creating a captivating wardrobe of sensuality with plunging necklines and exposed skin artfully juxtaposed against a diverse array of fabrics and colours. Distressed leather and denim mingle with patched check shirts and sharp tailoring, creating a symphony of contrasts that celebrates feminine allure. Men’s looks boldly embrace transparency – chiffon shirts hinting at the body beneath while low-slung pants exude a laid-back attitude. Knitwear adds a touch of warmth while cargos, destroyed tees, and lurex knits underscore the collection’s versatility, catering to a wide range of styles.
Accessories perfectly complement the collection’s raw and refined aesthetic. Gothic belt bags exude a touch of edge, while D2 clutches add a touch of elegance, and a diverse array of options ensures that everyone finds their perfect fit under the hands of Dean and Dan Caten. Oh, and of course, we couldn’t fail to mention the twin brothers’ final bow, with Dean closing the show dressed in full drag – a very powerful statement.
“Celebration of ephemeral memories and feelings” is a great starting quote for Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto’s show, the duo behind Jordanluca. For their presentation in Milan, artist Dominic Myatt took over the venue and presented an artwork featuring over a thousand balloons, transforming the space into a rave party.
According to Jordanluca, the new utilitarian punk is here. Hitting off the runway, all-black-everything looks slowly transformed into a vibrant tapestry of cherry red and grey hues where contrasting elements collide to create a captivating spectacle. Leather was the main character of this rave party: from jackets, coats, pants, and minidresses to ankle boots and bags. Meanwhile, tailored suits exuded an aura of refined elegance with simple and structured silhouettes.The patterns, on the other hand, added the Jordanluca statement style: balloon-printed pieces and a proper animal print added a touch of playfulness, while transparent pieces and denim workwear infused the collection with a rebellious spirit and complemented the cut-out touches.
The contrast between formal wear and a punk flair made it something remarkable. And, of course, who better to embody this rebellious spirit than Vivienne Westwood’s Andreas Kronthaler? The fashion designer strut down the runway in a mohawk, sheer top, leather coat, and high-heel boots. From the garments to the industrial location, Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto broke the quiet luxury allegations for good.
Emporio Armani
Embark on a captivating odyssey across the Atlantic with Giorgio Armani’s timeless menswear collection, a faithful tribute to the house’s timeless elegance. The sailor style, a cornerstone of men’s fashion for centuries, undergoes a meticulous and detailed reinterpretation in Armani’s collection, crafting the wardrobe of the most stylish mariners of the seven seas, manifested in defined silhouettes with broad shoulders and ample volumes. Formal shoes with wide soles and soft boots paired with unique tailored sets provide a grounded foundation for these seafaring ensembles. Port styles, with their long coats, jackets, and generously proportioned trousers, take centre stage, where the monochromatic combinations ended up being the perfect option.
In pursuit of uncharted territories and a challenge to traditional gender norms, the collection extends its reach to women, adapting and resizing garments while retaining Armani’s signature radicalism, redefining the boundaries of menswear while embracing the spirit of exploration.