Études, the avant-garde fashion house known for its innovative designs and multidisciplinary approach to clothing recently unveiled its Spring/Summer 2024 collection with a menswear runway show that kicked off Paris Fashion Week. Titled Crépuscule (meaning twilight), the collection was showcased over the capital’s rooftops. After investigating the city’s epicentre and periphery, this third chapter of the Études’ meta-urban exploration was a captivating fusion of sartorial creativity that reimagined the stereotypical image of Parisian rooftops through an artistic prism.
The runway show was a remarkable spectacle staged on a rooftop parking lot in the 18th arrondissement, at the foot of Montmartre, offering a breathtaking view of the city's skyline. As the models strutted with effortless confidence, the show was accompanied by the pulsating beats of DJ and techno music producer, The Hacker, immersing the audience in a captivating audiovisual experience. Études' creative trio – Jérémie Egry, Aurélien Arbet, and José Lamali – take us on a journey above the bustling streets of Paris, where zinc mazes and fading light create an atmosphere of suspended time. As the sun sets and shadows lengthen, the rooftops become a playground of anonymity, allowing one to observe without being observed. This ethereal ambience infuses the Crépuscule collection with a sense of lightness and exhilaration.

Études masterfully blends disparate elements from gabber culture, skateboarding, and soft tailoring, resulting in a collection that defies convention. By seamlessly merging structure and movement, workwear patina and streetwear comfort, the brand showcases its distinct stylistic imprint. Tailored pieces exuded Parisian elegance while embracing a functional allure, with outdoor influences and technical details adding a modern twist. Bombers transform into jumpsuits, jackets evolve into trench coats with gathered sleeves, and wide nylon multi-pocket pants complement oversized jackets and sophisticated double-breasted coats. The unexpected combination of a technical-outdoor harness with a silk tracksuit epitomises Études' ability to push boundaries.

Incorporating powerful messages throughout the collection, the Parisian label evoked the spirit of graffiti, street culture, and techno-culture. Phrases such as ‘Exit,’ ‘Insomnia,’ and ‘High’ serve as visual motifs, accompanied by intriguing enigmatic expressions like ‘La Nuit Dort le Jour’ (‘Night slumbers during the day’). Once again, the brand's iconic ‘É’ takes on a scratched motocross logo aesthetic, while barbed wire serves as a provocative embellishment, symbolising the forbidden and the risky.

The colour palette of the collection serves as a spectrum of emotions. From serene pigeon blue and zinc to deep charcoal greys, the initial hues create a nocturnal ambience. The addition of black and navy tones further intensifies the sensation of a dark, mysterious night. As dawn breaks, vibrant oranges burst onto the scene, injecting a sense of urgency akin to warning signs. Bright whites gradually illuminate the looks, symbolising the emergence of a new day. An intriguing mottled print, reminiscent of pixelated graffiti fog, adorns workwear jackets and pants, blurring the lines between street art and fashion.

Études elevates its collection through a carte blanche collaboration with French artist Julian Farade. Known for his fusion of figuration and abstraction, Farade's drawings, featuring bird, chimney, and butterfly motifs, lend an ephemeral touch to the world of Parisian rooftops. The artist's vibrant, chaotic shapes adorn several pieces, including a denim jacket, baggy pants, and a shirt, adding an artistic dimension to the collection. With its distinctive aesthetics and thought-provoking messages, Études continues to captivate us, offering a unique and evocative journey above the rooftops of the City of Light.
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