After his temporary timeout to serve as the head designer and design director for two prestigious fashion houses in Paris and Italy, Finnish Heikki Salonen has also returned to his own label. Initially launched in east London in 2009, Salonen’s brand was discontinued three years later when he left for Paris. By releasing a capsule collection, which is available through east London boutique Hostem, Salonen makes an assertive comeback to his initial scene. Incorporating a mix of cross-referencing elements, and reuse of surplus fabrics from previous collections, the new line goes by the relevant name of Deadstock.
All the textiles from which the collection is crafted come solely from the same Italian mill, and are woven in a very technical and contemporary way. An opposition of two different types of yarn in one fabric creates a rugged effect, which is in line with the raw, patchwork style of the garments’ stitching. In contrast, the shapes of the garments are minimal and sharp. All silk-screen-printing and stitching has been handcrafted by the designer. Additionally, to achieve the highest level of quality possible, the coats’ shapes and interiors were perfected by a London based tailor, using around two days for the finishing of each piece. The collection’s visual features are built up of fragments from the brand’s heritage, representing the brand’s core values. An inspiration coming from a mix of music, subcultures, cults and campfire tales, clearly distinguishes the overall theme. Deadstock, as appropriately described by the designer, is about “creating juxtaposition with each product.”