After introducing us to the enchanting universe Chanel imagined for this season's Métiers d’art show by the hand of Wim Wenders, Tilda Swinton, Leah Dou, and Xin Zhilei, in a magical short film, the lifelong admiration of Gabrielle Chanel towards Hangzhou is materialised on the runway, in a setting that looks closer to a fairy tale than to a fashion event. The craft and the savoir-faire of the maison shine bright in the dark night at the West Lake, only matched by the breathtaking foliage surrounding the scenery and the magical bridge that serves as the background for a collection where evoking and remembering Gabrielle's creative universe was the way to make her present in a landscape she always dreamt about.
Without being aware of it, the antique Coromandel screens that Gabrielle Chanel surrounded herself with throughout her life—some of her most frequent and inspiring sights that graced the walls of her study in her Parisian home at 31, rue Cambon—became the prelude to a show that would take place decades after the designer “fainted with happiness” when walking into a Chinese art dealer and coming across with them. The imaginary depicted on these screens, the beautiful landscapes of the West Lake in Hangzhou have finally received Chanel’s universe, and even though many years have passed after Gabrielle dreamt about them, her spirit was more present than ever in a collection that perfectly reminisces the romanticism of the past, adapting it to the present.
The night sky served not only an aesthetic purpose during the show but also complemented the looks and enhanced the mystery and the sensual allure surrounding them. From the subtlety of a sudden shimmer coming from some of the classical tweed long coats to the luxurious and eye-catching appeal of a bright gold nightgown-inspired dress, every piece on the runway becomes the star that shines in the dark. Silhouettes like straight-cut jackets belted at the waist, jackets buttoned at the side, and tuxedo jackets lined in white satin worn over skirts with pleats all speak to the timelessness and classicism Chanel has us used to, but details like the pagoda sleeves, the mandarin collars, or the shades of jade and sky blue used remind us where this show is taking place and infuse it with a contemporary allure.
The travelling spirit of the house, and specifically of the Métiers d’art, is reflected in the most colourful looks, where the silhouettes—with bermuda shorts, jeans, and cardigans—and the styling—including travel bags, vanity cases, hats, beanies, and scarves—exude the comfortability of a free soul that is craving to be on the go. The graphics on some of the garments pockets resemble letter writing thanks to their envelope-like form, and details like the addition of lotus-embroidered motifs next to the iconic camellias are a direct reference to Mademoiselle Chanel’s screens, the starting point of it all.
The romantic night where friends of the house witnessed the magical craft of the house walking over waters that have been the inspiration for artists and creatives for centuries is a testament to Chanel’s compromise in creating a storytelling and a narrative surrounding their collection that transcends fashion and that becomes a significant act of love towards the person who started this journey and to the ones who, up until this day, make part of it.
