Prepare to be transported through time and sound with Celine’s Homme Winter 2024 collection, titled Symphonie Fantastique after Hector Berlioz’s homonymous psychedellic sound piece. This runway show, presented as a video, is an audio-visual orchestra of Hedi Slimane’s chapter inside the French Maison while blending decades of artistry and fashion. All of that, with the impressive Mojave Desert as the backdrop. If in cinema it’s been Dune: Part Two and now Furiosa that have taken us to impressive deserted landscapes, in fashion it’s Slimane who dares to make the move. And we’re here for it.
Celine’s new menswear collection draws inspiration from 19th-century composer Hector Berlioz’s Symphonie Fantastique, a piece that defied convention at the time and is considered the first psychedellic symphony, predating the 1960s hippie movement by over a century. Slimane’s fascination with this masterpiece began at the young age of eleven, and years later, Berlioz’s romantic and dramatic composition has continued to resonate deeply within his work, now becoming the pillar on which his newest collection stands.
With that rich, complex, and impressive sound piece as main inspiration, we could only expect something just as grandiose for the setting. And it is. California’s Mojave Desert turns into a surreal stage with empty highways, rolling hills, and wind turbines that create an epic backdrop to showcase the collection. The film kicks off with a dramatic scene: a fleet of Celine-branded helicopters descending upon the desert highway, delivering a one-of-a-kind Celine x Cadillac jukebox. This sets the tone for the entire show, a luxurious blend of rock and roll rebellion that Hedi is known for.
The collection boasts forty-three looks, including twelve state-of-the-art couture ensembles, and it marks a triumphant return to sophisticated tailoring. Envision sharp silhouettes reminiscent of 1960s fashion with the spirit of 19th-century Anglomania. Frock coats, three-button suits, and embroidered waistcoats take centre stage, crafted from luxurious materials like silk, cashmere, and vicuña. The colour palette is a study in contrasts, featuring bold matte black alongside the sheen of satin and lacquered finishes where you can breathe Slimane signature style.
For the video, the natural beauty of the Mojave Desert and the vibrant streets of Los Angeles blend perfectly to create a scenario for the film that blurs the lines between eras. This juxtaposition is echoed in the collection's accompanying photography series, which features a young cowboy, Brayden Liberio, clad in authentic riding clothes alongside his loyal companion, a nine-year-old horse named Frijole. The series, titled California Teen Cowboy Hedi Slimane, spans from 2013 to 2024, showcasing the enduring allure of the cowboy spirit.
