With references to the rebellious side of today’s youth culture, along with motifs reflecting the advancements of today’s technology, Buerlangma’s creations stand out as one of the most revolutionary in fashions’ editorial world with artists such as Beyonce, Xtina and Doja Cat seen captured in their innovative designs. Sculptural and definitely high fashion this brand is one to watch.
The debut of their most recent collection Do it like a Villain at London Fashion Week, sparked a buzz amongst social media with their stand-out pieces and their improvised fashion moment that called out delivery service UPS for not delivering garments from the show on time. After visiting the show we caught up with Qiqi, a member of the Buerlangma duo to discuss the process, their brilliant dichotomy of the past and future as inspiration for their creations, and up-coming projects
Your recent collection Do it like a Villian debuted at London Fashion week and was a brilliant success. How did this show differ from previous?
This is the first collection I’ve ever released in London, and I've actually incorporated some of my vision of London into the design, like some of the rock n roll elements.
What was the inspiration behind the collections title?
Villain is defined as a very important image in fashion culture, which tends to be propulsive and subversive, and I used this as inspiration to discuss the rebellious side of today’s youth culture.
Your work draws on technological motifs such as 3D sculpting and metallics. What draws you to these techniques? What themes do they imply?
The way 3D printing is used to express wearable devices may differ from the way it is used to make fabrics, as I designed 3D printing techniques to explore the limits and edges of wearability.
What was the process behind this collection?
The collection was actually very bumpy to design and produce, as there were only 60 days left at the point we were told to go to London Fashion Week, which was a huge and daunting task for a six-person studio.
Your work has fantastic reputation amongst the editorial world, being sought as the go-to brand for avant garde styling. Was this always the intention when creating these designs?
The art of dressing has always been my theme. I have not yet made any consumer goods or marketable ready-to-wear products because, for now, fashion remains an art for me, not just a business. I am constantly looking for investors or doing other ventures to keep my brand afloat. I had no idea how long I would last, so I designed each collection as if it were my last.
This recent collection displayed diverse and eclectic designs with a nod to themes of Chinese youth culture, but also British culture with references to punk. What drew you to these influences?
I am a young man surrounded by a crowd of young people. The criticism and certain fierce rebellions of my friends and young men against society piqued my curiosity, and I believe that the rebellion of current youths is the key to the advancement of art.
Your works have recently dominated the fashion scene with artists such as Beyoncé, Xtina and Doja Cat wearing your designs. How does it feel to see your work being worn by some of the most influential artists of our time?
It’s like a dream and very surreal that one day my work is being worn by the world’s most influential stars, which will allow the brand to bubble up quickly and many people come up to me after seeing these achievements and tell me it is time to start making money with the brand and take advantage of the exposure, but I see that I have to stick to my art for a while longer.
You’ve mentioned before that a huge inspiration for your work is the 80s. How do you keep your designs synchronous with both the past and the future?
What I loved about the 80s was that it was a time when people were neither fantasising about the future nor dwelling on the past, when the culture and art were very focused on the power of the moment, and that fits with my concept of creation.
How has being one of the youngest couturiers in China impacted the way that you work?
Plenty of things have become so unacceptable due to my age that some people have questioned me, perhaps for being advised by capable people behind me or having a great deal of wealth, but I would say I was just lucky enough to find something I loved at a young age and nothing more.
After such a successful season, what shall we expect from Buerlangma next?
The next launch will be in June, my second couture collection. I am still working on it and hope it will be well received.