7 Movies to Understand Black Dandyism

Used to seeing outrageous gowns and impossible looks, this year’s theme feels more grounded. Guests will of course flaunt some of the most over-the-top creations (can’t wait to see what many of them pull out), custom made for the event. But still, paying tribute to Black dandyism gives attendees a way to wear outfits that have roots, rich histories, culture, and identity. As Ty Gaskins writes in Vogue, Black dandyism, at its core, is “a fashion revolution, a movement steeped in history, resistance, and pride. But its impact stretches far beyond the sartorial. It’s a cultural statement, an act of protest, and, above all, an enduring celebration of individuality.”

For the first time ever, this year’s MET Gala will have four male co-chairs: actor Coleman Domingo, singers and creative directors A$AP Rocky and Pharrell, and F1 driver Lewis Hamilton — all of them known for being incredibly stylish and unafraid to express their creativity through fashion. To follow suit, we’ve compiled a list of movies with characters who could well be considered Black dandies and attend tonight’s prestigious dinner at the Metropolitan Museum in NYC.

Based on a true story, Peter Farrelly’s Green Book (2018) tells the story of virtuoso pianist and composer Don Shirley (played magnificently by Mahershala Ali, who won the Oscar and the Golden Globe for this role) and his chauffeur, Tony Lip (Viggo Mortensen). Together, they embark on a tour across the United States. But bear in mind that this happened i 1962, when civil rights were a hot topic but the African American community was still legally discriminated against and deeply marginalised. 

With incredible regality, grace, and style, Mahershala Ali embodies Black dandyism to perfection: a bold yet thought-out use of colours, custom tailoring that fits him like a glove, and subtle accessories like silk scarfs and opulent jewellery. Just *chef’s kiss*

It aches that this year’s MET Gala is perfectly suited for one of Vogue’s (and fashion’s) most daring, fabulous contributors ever, and that he’s unfortunately no longer with us. André Leon Talley was a force of nature: he worked at Andy Warhol’s The Factory, in WWD, and then several Condé Nast publications. He was one of the most recognisable, charming yet poignant editors out there, and his presence is still missed. Even Doechii payed homage to him by sporting some Louis Vuitton tennis-wear, recreating a famous picture of him in NYC.

In the documentary The Gospel According to André (2017), Kate Novak makes a comprehensive portrait of him, where friends of his (and André himself) speak on his trailblazing journey to success. Expect lessons on good taste, following your intuition, and clawing your way to the top despite opposition from others.

Few people have been as influent as Malcom Little (known as Malcolm X) in American politics in the last century. The activist, who was murdered in 1965 on stage while fighting for civil rights, is still today’ an incredibly relevant figure. Spike Lee directed a biopic starring Denzel Washington and Angela Bassett in 1992, nominated to two Academy Awards: Best Actor and Best Costume Design. 

If the figure of the Black dandy, as Ty Gaskins wrote in Vogue, is related to pride, revolution, and identity, it is clear that someone with the importance of Malcolm X had to present himself to the world in the best way possible — for dignity, for honour, and self-esteem. In this movie, we can see colourful zoot suits that even inspired the great Dapper Dan, which he actually mentioned in a recent Instagram post.

Despite the polemic that Quentin Tarantino wrote the N word dozens of times in this script, Django Unchained (2012) remains one of his best movies. Also, Django (Jamie Foxx) portrays to perfection one of the earliest examples of the Black dandy, back in the 18th century. Vibrant colours, intricate embroideries, fitting silhouettes, and, of course, lots and lots of blood and cursing. 

James Baldwin is another major influence in Black culture in the US. The prolific author, who wrote Giovanni’s Room, Notes of a Native Son, Go Tell It on the Mountain, or Down at the Cross, embodies the Black dandy perfectly. Inspired by his unfinished work, Remember this House, a memoir of his personal recollections of civil rights leaders Medgar Evers, Malcolm X and Martin Luther King Jr., the 2016 documentary I Am Not Your Negro by Raoul Peck is an eye-opening work about African American people and their centuries-long marginalisation.

It doesn’t get more dandy than a king, does it? Eddie Murphy looked magnificent in John Landis’ Coming to America (1988) — in fact, the outfits we so, so outstanding that Deborah Nadoolman was nominated to the Academy Award for Best Costume Design. This absurd comedy might not be the best of films, however, we’re focusing on fashion today. And crown prince Akeem Joffer, from the non-existent country of Zamunda, had an enviable wardrobe we still dream of: fur coats, double-breasted blazers, wide-leg pants, and a vast array of hats and headwear.

Starring Coleman Dominngo, one of the MET Gala’s cochairs, this biopic on civil rights activist Bayard Rustin is heartbreaking yet somehow optimist. It shows how this often forgotten activist sparked a movement in the early 1960s, a convulse time when African American people reclaimed their rights and marched to achieve freedom.