Maria Grazia Chiuri pays tribute to three icons: Catherine Dior, Édith Piaf and Juliette Greco. She delves into history, especially the 1950s, and how these three women subverted the feminine stereotypes that arose post-war. Each of them is known, in their respective industries, – Dior sold flowers, the other two were known for commanding a stage – for expressing themselves, their emotions and for their wardrobes.
One of the standouts of the show was the amazing set design, an enchanting, magical wonderland of lights, colours and giant bauble-like fabric sculptures commissioned from the Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos. It was the perfect set to bring back that romance and glamour that was needed in a post-war Europe, a homage to those women who uplifted the spirits of society, the women of the French Resistance. Rebellious women who wore simple yet powerful looks, who weren't afraid to toy with masculinity.
From New Look checked suits, there was a modernisation of archival silhouettes. Ultra-modern mottled fabrics have been interwoven with metal threads, this way the fabric becomes more breathable and mouldable, giving importance to the comfortability of the looks. Again, women come first. From delicate tartan fabrics to distinguish coats, jackets and straight skirts – these might seem like simple silhouettes but what works works, right? Everything has been invented, Maria Grazia Chiuri is here to tweak and subvert and give what women want. Elegant looks that defy at the same time as they pay tribute to the Maison's heritage.
From New Look checked suits, there was a modernisation of archival silhouettes. Ultra-modern mottled fabrics have been interwoven with metal threads, this way the fabric becomes more breathable and mouldable, giving importance to the comfortability of the looks. Again, women come first. From delicate tartan fabrics to distinguish coats, jackets and straight skirts – these might seem like simple silhouettes but what works works, right? Everything has been invented, Maria Grazia Chiuri is here to tweak and subvert and give what women want. Elegant looks that defy at the same time as they pay tribute to the Maison's heritage.
