In fashion, everything starts with an idea, but it begins to materialise with a drawing. The earliest stage of design is often the purest of them all, when initial creative thoughts move from the intangible into physical form through the raw and free strokes that represent the birth of something. These first moments in the life of an idea are as valuable to a creator as they are to those who wish to understand that creator better. Yohji Yamamoto, a mind and a man we are always curious about, is opening his archives to present a collection of never-before-seen drawings for pieces shown in Paris between 1981 and 1999 in the book Yohji Yamamoto Drawings.
Due out on 29 October and published by Thames & Hudson, this graphic compilation of sketches, designs and figurines means so much more than what Yohji himself takes them to be, calling them ‘just drawings’. For once, our dear Poet of Black is wrong. These glimpses into his mind reveal the way he conceives garments and silhouettes before they exist and how faithfully they translate into fabric and material. They are far more complex, important and revealing than his description suggests. ‘This book tells the story of a discovery,’ says the author of the book, Alexandre Samson. This is a much more accurate definition of what the publication is shaping up to be.
“It all began in a warehouse in Tokyo one afternoon in May 2024. Inside [a pile of cardboard boxes] were many hundreds of sheets of paper, bundled together or filed in ring binders … What had initially been mistaken for paperwork was in fact original artwork, drawn by the fashion house’s founder,” further explains Samson, fashion historian and curator at Palais Galliera. The images inside were selected by Yohji, and none other than Peter Saville was in charge of the design, a true meeting of great creative minds.
metal-yohji-yamamoto-drawings-01.webp
© Yohji Yamamoto Inc. Spring/Summer 1985 womenswear
metal-yohji-yamamoto-drawings-02.webp
© Yohji Yamamoto Inc. Autumn/Winter 1987–88 womenswear
metal-yohji-yamamoto-drawings-04.webp
© Yohji Yamamoto Inc Spring/Summer 1982 womenswear
metal-yohji-yamamoto-drawings-03.webp
© Yohji Yamamoto Inc. Autumn/Winter 1987–88 womenswear
metal-yohji-yamamoto-drawings-10.webp
© Yohji Yamamoto Inc. Autumn/Winter 1989–90 womenswear
metal-yohji-yamamoto-drawings-09.webp
© Yohji Yamamoto Inc. Autumn/Winter 1989–90 womenswear
metal-yohji-yamamoto-drawings-08.webp
© Yohji Yamamoto Inc. Autumn/Winter 1988–89 womenswear
metal-yohji-yamamoto-drawings-11.webp
© Yohji Yamamoto Inc. 1990
metal-yohji-yamamoto-drawings-07.webp
© Yohji Yamamoto Inc. Autumn/Winter 1987–88 menswear
metal-yohji-yamamoto-drawings-14.webp
© Yohji Yamamoto Inc. Spring/Summer 1994 menswear