London Fashion Week S/S 2024

JW Anderson
Even before watching the show, the stakes were high in JW Anderson being included in our favourite collections. Well, the stakes were right because we are starting with him. Of Anderson, we can expect fun, surrealism, maybe a couple of comically doll-esque looks, super cool accessories, and maybe an animal-shaped bag (the pigeon bag still flies around my mind from time to time). This collection was a sort of reflection of youth in two different but almost chronological ways..

The first look was as JW Anderson as it could get, not only in aesthetics but also in the way that often, when seeing his work, you have to spend at least a couple of minutes wondering how the hell that was constructed. This kind of looks like plasticine, but it can’t be, right? RIGHT? Well, of course it was. We are talking about the man who has attached a broken skateboard to a t-shirt. The use of this material alludes to the playful and childlike side of the brand, one that Anderson loves to reference and that serves as inspiration for often the most interesting and talked-about looks. Plasticine is also a British invention, so there’s that.

The three of these moulded looks were interspersed by the other two that were very much real fabric but whose construction and silhouette felt as unreal as the other, a couple of satisfyingly fitted and tailored blazers that curved and sat perfectly. The other youthful allusion comes from various pairings, techniques, and styling choices that give even the most simple looks the JW touch. Biker jackets and cargo pants are Gen Z’s new uniform (as seen not only on TikTok but in all fast fashion stores all around the world). We can see them too on this runway, but a slightly curved leg shape and a hood instead of the typical jacket collar truly make the difference.

A couple of rather elegant dresses that twist around the body are interrupted at the bottom by relaxed and unbothered knots and paired with beachy loafers, and some very classic trench coats are upgraded by a skirt-like addition to the usual belt these garments have. The surreal side of this brand is often linked to the process of clothing construction and how this can be altered. The idea of presenting bomber jackets and pants that allow the internal feathers to peek out is, for lack of better words, amazing. Not only is it visually interesting, but it also speaks about the reality of fashion. There’s way more to a piece than what the outside shows.

Simone Rocha
Taking the world by storm. One ribbon under the eye at a time, Rocha’s runway is one of the forbidden-to-miss shows in London. With the recent announcement of her being the designer invited for the creation of the next Haute Couture collection of Jean Paul Gaultier, it is safe to say she’s doing everything right. The roses, transparencies, pearls, and laces are as present as always in what felt like a more street-oriented collection than others, without pushing into the side the romantic, almost fairy-tale-like aesthetic the brand has carefully constructed ever since its creation. This first element, the roses, was included in the garments in a way that was equally literal and subtle. In between layers of sheer, lightweight fabrics in dresses, jackets, and skirts, roses could be seen strategically located inside custom-made little pockets that fitted the stems perfectly.

In this coed collection, menswear really took the cake. It is always interesting to see good menswear proposals outside the conventional, maybe because of how used we are to the inability of men to step up their fashion game, as if options like the ones presented here didn’t exist. The delicate details and fabrics in which the more casual silhouettes were made created a dichotomy between shape and content that speaks about Rocha’s ability to take her universe outside the expected and how its consistency and depth translate equally well in a romantic dress as in a wide technical jacket. This duality finds its peak with probably the hottest pair of shoes that came out of this edition of LFW (as confirmed by our office, we all scream in joy whenever someone mentions them). I’m talking about none other than the Simone Rocha Platform Mule Crocs, embellished with pearls and cute jewellery. To die for.

Chopova Lowena
Apparently, what we like now is duality, the ability to blend two, at first, very opposite concepts into one cohesive whole, where the differences turn from enemies to best friends. This capacity to synthesise is what we saw on Chopova Lowena’s yearly runway. If only showing once a year instead of two (not by choice but more like a blame the industry situation) means that we will receive such interesting proposals, then we will gladly receive quality over quantity. Skaterbois and the Helston Flora Day festival—what do they have in common? They both exist in the newest garments designed by the duo Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons. In a variety of not only looks but also models with a casting that stands out for its wide range of different-looking humans, elements from these two cultural references can be found living together and getting along.

The most traditional silhouettes, such as dresses, coats, and jackets with puritan collars, wide sleeves, and lace details, are disrupted by colourful graffiti, leather details, and safety pins. The already flagship safety pins held together the iconic tartan skirts, presented once again in this collection as if it were that song of an artist that must be included on the set list no matter how many years have passed since its release. The tartan shared the spotlight with delicate and neat white lace fabrics, showing that clean can go punk, and punk can go clean. Traditional skater boi attire like big baggy shorts and big baggy bomber jackets, as well as sweatshirts and plaid relaxed pants, were given a twist with delicate details added to the hems, collars, and sleeves. If he was a Sk8rboi, then I hope he was Chopova Lowena’s type of Sk8rboi.

Stefan Cooke
To start the week with such a bright, calming, and pleasant-to-look-at first look is a great welcome to the fashion visitors, always stressed and always on the run. The shade of the cape of this look and also the construction that reminds us of a picnic tablecloth give us a hint of what was later confirmed by Cooke: this was a collection that speaks summer. Sports thrive on this season; we mean sports as an afternoon with friends kind of vibe, not so much a super-well-equipped competitive activity. Upper pieces with silhouettes that remind us of rugby uniforms but in a much softer and more subtle way are cinched by belts in the waist, and comfortable and colourful sweaters are interrupted by a big diagonal piece of fabric. This is no other than his version of a champion slash given to those that have won tournaments, the explanation for why they called these pieces the champion knits.

In laid-back collections like this, the craft and attention to detail are more noticeable, and we can always trust Stefan Cooke to be a master at both of those. The fitting of the pieces is particularly good; the collaboration with Mulberry for the bags makes sense as they in fact look like a collaboration, not just some borrowed pieces; and the flexible gender identity of the garments makes them desirable for whoever has good taste. Probably a few people would wonder how the subtle grid and linear motif of the rugby tops are made, as we are used to assuming that fabrics are just born like this. Well, learning that this is not a fabric but instead is foam and that these patterns are not there by chance but have been printed by the sun in the same way the skin gets tanned, really puts into perspective how much we can deduce about clothes by only looking at them and how much is left behind when we don't dig more into them.

Ashish
With Ashish Gupta is all about colours, fun, and culture. Just by the set-up, with a giant moon and an equally big swan-shaped bed, we could guess this was going to be somehow related to fantasy, surrealism, or dreams. A dream it was, one where everybody was a star, as could be read in the background. Also, one where everyone was invited to be part of, representing what true diversity means, not only in body size but also in gender, age, and race. Look after look, each outfit was worn with such outstanding confidence and comfort that we can only guess the purpose of the designer was fulfilled. Seeing people look and feel so good in your creations must be one of the greatest feelings.

The usual colour sequins Ashish has us used to were present in all shapes and forms, from a tiny pink tiger brief to a blouse and pants combo with the same print as the underwear rocked by probably the oldest model that walked this fashion week, and of course, the closing look, a beautiful degrade sari that’s just the perfect blend of his culture and his style. The Studio 54 vibe was in the ambient. Two couples came down the runway, one very colourful with matching patchwork sequin looks and the other with a much more emo punk aesthetic, black leather jacket included, but of course, changing the leather for, you guessed it, sequins. More than a runway, this was a party where everyone was the life of it.

Marrknull
One of the brands to keep an eye on. We’ve been prophesying about it ever since our last interview with them, where we learned how they are constantly seeking and exploring ways to blur the line between tradition and modernity. In what seems like one of their most utilitarian collections, we jump from proposals that revolve around jungles and statues to one that takes place in a common and ordinary office. More specifically, they invite us to get off work, with everything that implies. Experts at the garment deconstruction art, traditional business uniforms such as tailored suits and button-up shirts are altered; the lapels are no longer around the neck but rather hanging from it; shirt collars are relocated to the arm; and tie-shape fabrics are wrapped around the body.

The game was not only a deconstruction one, respecting traditional shapes and silhouettes like pencil skirts and fitted jackets; the Marrknull twist is given by the fabric, where denim suddenly makes everything look cooler. The attention to detail goes all the way into the accessories, where the shape of the eyewear reminds us very much of the stereotypical ones we see TV shows secretaries use. The hanger bag made a triumphal return, this time with other sorts of hangers added to the collection, and the jewellery claimed all the flashes. The collaboration between the brand and the also stellar Yvmin brought to life the biggest and prettiest hanger earrings you’ve ever seen, and probably the only ones you’ve ever seen as well. The sun setting down in the busy city, as seen on the print that adorned the final looks of the collection, invites us to leave the office and join MarrKnull on their next journey.

KWK by Kaykwok

Kay Kwok is probably one of the most interesting designers in current fashion. His approach to the discipline, driving far away from the established and walking hand in hand with technology, makes his vision one that perfectly represents what a designer who utilises the infinite amount of tools our modern era gives us without sacrificing a tiny bit of creativity or authenticity can do. The colour palette, the shape, the materials—what is there not to highlight about this collection? Materialising the more introspective and spiritual energies, this collection is one where everything flows. The circular shapes talk about never-ending cycles, and the gradient of the shades evokes not only a deeper sense of perspective and movement but also a particular tranquillity that contrasts with the magnitude of the garments.

The evocation of these feelings of peace is not by chance; this is the emotional manifestation of the Buddhist elements behind the collection. All these reflective nuances are derived directly from this religion and philosophy. The physical representation comes from the well-known mudras that are represented not only in the form of print with a futuristic style that can easily remind us of Hajime Sorayama art pieces but also in the giant, presumably 3D-printed shiny pieces that adorned the last looks, where these hand gestures come to life hugging the body. The grand finale is a look that situates the model inside a big, also 3D-printed, calla lily flower, as if it were blooming from the inside of it. Doing a little bit of research, this flower represents enlightenment in Buddhism, and boy, oh boy, if this collaboration did enlighten us.