Yohei Ohno

When I was studying at Bunka Fashion College, I was fascinated by Nicolas Ghesquière's Balenciaga as well as London designers such as Christopher Kane and Giles. My graduate collection and many of the dresses I made during that period were heavily influenced by them, especially in terms of silhouettes. Although I was starting to figure out the kind of style I wanted to pursue, I struggled to find relativity between the clothes I was making and my life in Tokyo. I felt like my pieces were not relevant because I couldn’t find a muse in real life.
By getting out of Tokyo and living in the United Kingdom for the first time, I was able to figure out who I wanted to dress. I took advantage of the opportunity and travelled to different cities in Europe (that included sneaking into shows during Paris Fashion Week) for further inspiration.

Living in Tokyo means you're surrounded by an overwhelming amount of information, therefore, my attraction to simplicity and its beauty came very naturally. I wanted to explore it through creating and the medium happened to be fashion. I'm also passionate about sculptures and furniture, which have always been my inspiration.

I started my label right after graduating, so there was a lot to learn. I'd say I’m still constantly learning and evolving as a designer. My clothes could be seen as show pieces but I want them to be wearable. It's all about the balance. I've been trying to make them into wearable products, convincing the customers without becoming commercial. I would not say my style is established yet, so there might be inconsistency in my collections. I don't consider that as a bad thing at all though, as crystalising your style could be boring. I want to keep the unexpected.

I met Adi through Ai Takahashi, the stylist. I immediately thought his style would work well with my pieces when I first saw his portfolio. On our first meeting, we didn't need more than ten minutes to share what we both wanted, the communication went so smooth that I knew he was the right collaborator. It doesn't work like that for me every time, I often struggle to find good collaborators, not only because I don't have much budget but also because I'm rather introverted. It can be hard to network with other creatives in Japan since the fashion industry here is very exclusive, but it's something I have to work on for sure.

I would specifically like to contribute to the preservation of the Japanese local textile industry by sourcing from and promoting them. The industry is shrinking due to the shortage of successors. I believe that we really need to try and preserve them as they’re worth it. Although it’s not commonly known, many Parisian luxury designers also source fabrics from Japanese local textile manufacturers.

I want my clothes to be worn by a woman who is able to decide what is valuable according to her own values.

I'm inspired by my ideal life, its space, and the objects that I fantasise would suit in it such as furniture, and a woman who would live within it. I make sure that each piece is simple yet unique. I'm particularly interested in the colours and texture of the materials, which I’d like you to see and feel in real life.

Wherever I go, I carry my fabric swatches at all times. I'm always thinking about how to develop my designs and simultaneously the mood I want to communicate, and even the words I want to use in order to describe the collections. Anything could be an inspiration for me, even a random idea that crosses my mind or an object that I find on the street. It doesn't have to make sense as long as it feels fresh.

I maintain close relationships with manufacturers, making sure the production is small so that I can oversee everything. I'm totally against mass production, I only produce the right number of pieces for the people that actually want them. I try to promote an ethical production cycle that is healthy for everyone involved.

There is no reason to not source locally when you’re based in a country that offers almost every kind of fabric in exceptional quality. I believe that the preservation of local industries is key to sustainable fashion. You’re not a good designer if you can’t design clothes without relying on using Italian textiles.

As mentioned above, Yohei Ohno as a brand is driven by the desire to ‘explore’. Being a male womenswear designer enables me to stay objective and curious. I believe that it’s impossible for a man to really understand what it’s like to be a woman. That is what makes it exciting and worth pursuing through life for me.

I will focus on the wearability and comfort while keeping it artistic and sculptural. In terms of communication, I’ll aim to make it clear and simple in order to make sure it appeals to the women I want my clothes to be worn by.