The process always begins with an animate being and a big piece of fabric. Once I’ve decided whether to make a lower or upper body creation, I start wrapping the fabric around the body. Due to the interaction of the moving body with the forming fabric, seams, widths and fit are solely designed by this interplay in coherence with me subconsciously designing.
This sculpting process takes place in many different positions, eventually creating a body-cast that is form-fitting but effortless to articulate in at the same time. Once the shaping process is finished, the human cast is cut open at each previously created seam to obtain a prototype pattern. The next step entails cutting the prototype pattern from toile and adapting its form to find the anatomical fit. Lastly, the item is fitted on my body to create the renowned LEB body cast.
It’s important to acknowledge that due to our nature, our body is never 100% symmetrical. Therefore, I form the whole body of the piece and not just half of it, which creates sheer complexity within my patterns. For obvious reasons, these stages are very time-consuming and it usually takes me numerous runs of re-cutting and refitting to have a finished pattern in one single size. The ability to move and articulate freely while wearing my finished garments are of extreme importance – it is defined by the fit and the sutures within the piece. Because of this forming process, the human body is deeply connected to the garments. A truly anatomical way of tailoring.