A lot of contemporary artists are involved with that subject matter, as is the world of fashion with the ongoing trend of androgyny. But at this point I cannot think of an artist who’s doing it as provocatively yet with as much style as Newton did. What is much more picked up by later artists, such as the three young photographers presented in Foam 3h –Carlijn Jacobs, Elizaveta Porodina and Philippe Vogelenzang– is to have a strong, daring individualistic visual language in both their commercial and their autonomous work. In their work certain influences of Helmut Newton can be detected in various senses. The importance of the setting as well as the model and with it the creation of an individual universe, as with Carlijn Jacobs. Elizaveta Porodina similarly applies a cinematic style in her series, suggesting a larger story. The recording of a person’s iconic qualities in a portrait is characteristic of both the work of Helmut Newton and that of Philippe Vogelenzang. But it is above all their working methods, specifically the uninhibited realisation of personal fantasies and concepts in a style entirely their own, that marks out these three talents in the contemporary world of fashion photography. Especially in the Netherlands, where fashion photography tends to be much more graphic in composition, the work of these three artists is outstanding in its playfulness and free character.