Finnish designer Achilles Ion Gabriel, the new creative director of Camper, refers to himself as a shoe-maker rather than a shoe designer. “I think anybody can design shoes,” he says, “even shoes that can be constructed in one manner or another. But personally, I think it’s vital to be able to understand the construction and its requirements already in the design process.”
The newly appointed creative director’s thoughtful approach to shoemaking comes through his very first collection for Camperlab, Camper’s more experimental sub-brand, known for its progressive designs and collaborations with the likes of Kiko Kostadinov and Bernhard Willhelm.
Gabriel’s collection, which he has described as “surreal shoes that a farmer might wear,” looks at chairs, surreal aesthetic and the Spanish brand’s rich Mallorcan heritage for inspiration. “For me, it is a jackpot that a company like Camper is from Mallorca; I mean, it’s an extremely juicy DNA to play with,” the designer says. “It would feel very fake to me not to respect these roots and not to cherish them,” he adds.
Vivid colours, leather heels with toe knot, lace-up boots with toothed rubber outsoles, square flip-flops with matching tabi socks; there is a sense of refined humour to the collection. “In general, the spirit of Camper is very close to how I personally see the world and design; both myself and Camper are about fun, surreal and unexpected products.”
Gabriel’s collection, which he has described as “surreal shoes that a farmer might wear,” looks at chairs, surreal aesthetic and the Spanish brand’s rich Mallorcan heritage for inspiration. “For me, it is a jackpot that a company like Camper is from Mallorca; I mean, it’s an extremely juicy DNA to play with,” the designer says. “It would feel very fake to me not to respect these roots and not to cherish them,” he adds.
Vivid colours, leather heels with toe knot, lace-up boots with toothed rubber outsoles, square flip-flops with matching tabi socks; there is a sense of refined humour to the collection. “In general, the spirit of Camper is very close to how I personally see the world and design; both myself and Camper are about fun, surreal and unexpected products.”
You went to architecture school before switching to a shoe design programme. Are there any similarities between architecture and shoe-making? What impact did architecture have on your approach to designing shoes?
I got accepted to architecture school but I never went there; I decided to go for shoe design instead. Constructing things always intrigued me, and it never really mattered to me what the actual topic of construction was.
Why shoe design? What inspired you to work with the medium in the first place?
It was purely just a chance encounter with a shoemaking school. I never planned to go there, I just applied there out of curiosity. What intrigued me the most was that I didn’t know anyone who knew how to make shoes.
You have noted that Camper has a “kind and friendly image” while you would like Camperlab to be freer. How are you planning to implement this freedom?
For me, these two things can – and definitely also should – coexist. Also, in Camperlab you can have a kind and friendly image and be free at the same time. What I initially meant with that is that with Camperlab being the more experimental part of the brand, we are very free to do what we want in terms of design or communication as we are not restricted by the commercial aspect or the DNA of the brand.
You consider yourself a shoe-maker rather than a shoe designer. What is the variance for you personally between shoe-maker and shoe designer?
The approach of my training was very technical instead of design or fashion oriented. I think anybody can design shoes, even shoes that can be constructed in one manner or another. But personally, I think it’s vital to be able to understand the construction and its requirements already in the design process. Of course, at Camper we have the privilege of utilising the amazing team of technicians we have working in-house, whose knowledge spans much deeper and further than mine.
In an interview with Highsnobiety, you have said that “I really do believe that I am the right guy for the job.” Why are you the right guy for the job?
In general, the spirit of Camper is very close to how I personally see the world and design; both myself and Camper are about fun, surreal and unexpected products and communication, and we both also come from small isolated places.
How do you tackle designing a collection for a brand that has such a remarkable heritage?
As said, we share a lot of the same values. For me, it is quite simply just about updating with respect towards the DNA. I see that the work I do, for me, it is the brand heritage – it’s just the brand heritage seen through my eyes.
You have highlighted the brand’s Mallorcan heritage as one of the starting points of the design process. Why is it important for you to explore the brand’s roots?
It’s a super rich heritage, and the island also has a big part to play in the brand’s infrastructure and vice versa. It would feel very fake to me not to respect these roots and not to cherish them. For me, it is a jackpot that a company like Camper is from Mallorca; I mean, it’s an extremely juicy DNA to play with.
From chairs to the brand’s Mallorcan roots and surrealism; your first collection for Camperlab unifies disparate inspirations in designs that you have described as “surreal shoes that a farmer might wear.” What are your day-to-day inspirations?
My day-to-day inspirations are different people who don’t mind what other people might think of them, something I also find to be very Mallorcan by attitude.
You are involved in every aspect of Camper, from design (naturally) to communications and brand image. How does this hands-on experience with different aspects of the brand impact on your design process?
It doesn’t, really, to be honest. I want to deliver a product that is well designed and comfortable, and the communications and brand image are of course in support of this, and a tool used to express these points. Of course, building a world around the product and the brand is an extremely important way to submit our values, and also something that I enjoy doing, but the main dedication will always be in good products.
What would you like to achieve as a creative director of Camper?
Happy customers.
