Hermès’ latest Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection arrives at a moment of transition for the Maison, but even in this undefined terrain, it doesn’t disappoint. There’s an air of ease throughout, with tension released through softened structures designed to move gently through the day.
Starting with the colour palette, neutral tones are the primary choice, building on the effortlessness of the collection. Charcoal grey, shades of beige, chocolate browns and soft blacks are accentuated with wisteria plume, glacier blue and dusty rose. Structured suiting softens in the presence of loose knitwear, open sandals and boxy leather jackets, shifting the collection towards a more casual aesthetic.
The knitwear is a standout. A touch of warmth is felt instantly as the pieces are paired with tailored blazers and trousers. Sharp edges are relaxed, creating a sense of laid-back calm. Whether zipped, buttoned or classically cut, these pieces add interest without forcing the look. It’s hard not to think of the cable sweater worn by Chris Evans in Knives Out, which sent the internet into a frenzy: that same familiar softness is at work here.
The move into the spring and summer months also means lighter layers, making short-sleeve shirt jackets, blousons and oversized leather jackets a natural option. These outer layers are far from basic, however. High, exaggerated collars add structure, contrast stitching brings detail, and an open polka-dot pattern pairs neatly with the Mangeoire bag. Plain and printed French-cuff shirts are made in cotton and silk, matched with both crêpe and water-repellent cotton pleated trousers. Linen, the essential material for warmer months, appears in suits and a beige jumpsuit, offering a lightweight take on Hermès’ usual sophistication.
Models carry large bags that add detail and complement the looks. Hermès’ Haut à Courroies is envisioned in Fjord cowhide, canvas with green or brown accents, and Barénia Faubourg calfskin in a woven effect. Also seen are a black calfskin travel bag and the Seau R.M.S. bag in beige canvas with brown detailing. The sandals come in either calfskin or suede, with a choice of black, beige, bark, ebony or warm brown. Printed silk ties and belts in both Epsom and Odyssée calfskin also become focal accessories, adding depth to the collection.
