Hermès unveiled its Fall/Winter 2025 collection, a powerful testament to Nadège Vahnée's decade-long stewardship, transforming the historic Garde Republicaine stables into a striking runway. The show, titled Leather Dandy, eschewed the unique settings of seasons past, grounding itself in the Maison's equestrian heritage and its classic leather craftsmanship.
Vahnée's vision was clear: to explore the raw, refined power of leather, crafting a collection that exuded both strength and sensuality. The setting, with its dirt runway and echoes of equestrian activity, provided the perfect backdrop for this exploration, emphasising the collection's grounding in practical luxury.
The collection was a masterclass in texture and silhouette, with a focus on sharp tailoring and intricate leatherwork. Vahnée presented a compelling array of garments, from sleek motorcycle jackets with quilted detailing to high-waisted, impeccably tailored trousers accented with saddle-inspired belts. The interplay of materials was equally striking, with functional felt flowing like supple leather and denim reinforced with leather interfacing. Cashmere and silk turtlenecks added a touch of refined softness beneath grained goatskin pea coats and long bomber jackets in silk gabardine.
The colour palette, inspired by the natural world, featured luminous greens reminiscent of cypress and pine, alongside deep browns and blacks that echoed the rich tones of a horse's coat. These hues were punctuated by marble whites and charcoal greys, creating a sense of depth and dimension. The collection's modularity, with reversible overcoats and saddle flaps that transformed into shorts, highlighted Vahnée's innovative approach to design. Intricate details, such as hand-painted marble prints and fine perforations in the leatherwork, added a layer of subtle artistry.
