The fashion industry is always ahead of its time, and the norm each season is to see the runway shows for the following year rather than the current one. We talk about them, we analyse them, and we may add some items to our imaginary wishlist, but when the actual season they are made for arrives and the garments finally hit the stores, we have probably even forgotten about them — not weird, considering the nonstop overload of collections and new proposals we are exposed to throughout the year. Here we look back at the S/S 2026 collections presented last summer, choosing eight proposals that made sense back then but that now, in the season they were planned for, we would love to wear.
McQueen
This collection presents a whole spectrum of attire for the various occasions one encounters at this time of year: keeping up with corporate obligations even in the middle of August, preparing for a hot and sexy night out, enjoying a day in the city or relaxing by the pool in flowy and light dresses. The common denominator among all is the darkness and sensuality McQueen has ingrained in its DNA and Sean McGirr’s contemporary approach to breathing new life into it, including reviving iconic pieces like the unforgettable bumsters.
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Yohji Yamamoto
Because summer doesn't mean drastically changing our wardrobes from the muted and toned-down colours many of us mostly wear throughout the year and suddenly transforming into a neon and floral walking ray of sunshine if we don't feel like it, Yohji Yamamoto proposes an ever-black but still fresh and flowy alternative. Dresses, t-shirts, and skirts, all in very light fabrics that still hold their presence and forcefulness thanks to the signature deconstruction that works equally well no matter the time of the year; we find we can dress for the heat while keeping our personal style intact, with some options in white and others bolder in red if the occasion or our mood requires it.
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Isabel Marant
Summer is all about freedom, exploration, travel and connection. A brand whose ethos can be described using the same adjectives is Isabel Marant, who never fails to come up with new ways to materialise our voyager spirit into clothes and formulate new ways to dress with a touch that feels like an extension of nature. With earth tones and materials that align with the necessities of this weather, the casual attire and, at times, even basic pieces get elevated thanks to the attention to detail in their construction with the usual artisanal approach of the brand, where crochet, fringes and lace, usual sights in summer, find a house that values them and knows how to use them.
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Jacquemus
This summer you must have noticed a spike in wedding-related stories and posts on social media, because we have as well. It seems like everyone in the world is getting married at the same time, and a collection that seems to have read the room a year in advance is the one presented by Jacquemus at L’Orangerie of the Palace of Versailles. One of his strongest proposals to date, we can find plenty of alternatives that would work perfectly whether you are a guest — elegant, summery and interesting without stealing the spotlight — a bridesmaid — more glamorous and pompous if the occasion requires it — or the bride herself, with the dresses and all-white looks being some of the most beautiful in the collection.
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Versace
One of the most polarising collections from last year's batch of creative director debuts was the one conceived by Dario Vitale for Versace. Amid much discussion about whether this new look was consistent with the Italian house's history or the wrong way to begin this new chapter, we must say we understood it back then, and now, looking at it in retrospect, we understand it even more. The colourful, contrasting and layered pieces are undeniably fun and sexy in a very Versace way. The pop art-printed trousers and skirts are a way to bring back the 90s, and the more tailored and refined pieces are very, very nice to look at. Dario's quick exit from the house prevented us from seeing this vision develop and expand, but we will appreciate the little we did get.
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Bottega Veneta
Judging by the choice of materials and garment types, this evidently is not the most summery collection of them all, but Louise Trotter's debut at Bottega Veneta was so excellent it is worth giving up our Eurosummer and travelling to the opposite hemisphere, where it's winter and where we could make perfect use of the no-skip wardrobe proposed in this collection. Starting with the precise construction of the silhouettes across all the looks, the leather coats and jackets are to die for; the soft fringed capes – we would never take them off – and the unique glass fibre yellow, red and blue jackets and skirts are pieces that, despite a year having passed, we are still unable to forget. There are dresses and light looks equally nice, but the delish outerwear makes us want to wear it right now.
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Dries Van Noten
I really feel this needs no further explanation; the garments speak for themselves. Between the prints, the colours, the silhouettes and the styling, this is just summer excellence.
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Sandy Liang
Nostalgia is consuming our lives; why not let it consume them in summer too? Living in the past is sometimes not that bad, so bringing retro references back into our wardrobe seems like a good idea, especially when they have been filtered through the playful lens of Sandy Liang. We all know that sort of romantic feeling where we start to let our minds relax under the boiling sun and start to wander through a different time and a different place, and this collection looks just like how that feels, with delicate ditsy florals and bandanas wrapped around our heads and vintage shades of pink, yellow and blue that are now back on trend enhanced by the shimmer of silky materials. There's a blouse with a cute print of rabbits, a skirt with a PicsArt-style collage of what looks like happy memories and a dress with many tiny doll dresses attached. Of course we would like to wear it all!
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