Dover Street Market presented its latest collection by Kei Ninomiya in Florence’s Pitti Uomo, the biannual event championing menswear, accessories, and the creative spirits that gather in the ancient Italian city. Having trained under Rei Kawakubo and worked as a pattern maker for Comme des Garçons, Ninomiya has been closely involved in the creation of designs that stray from the traditional, opening a portal into a world of their own for like-minded people.
The Spring/Summer 2027 collection features a minimal colour palette, with a few tartan exceptions, without limiting its variety of textures and structural experiments. Tartan prints are matched with leather details for a punk edge reminiscent of disruptive 70s and 90s movements and a grunge, nonconformist spirit. Distressed knitwear carries the sense of ripping oneself free from constricted expectations. Taking a path slightly different from that of his own label, Noir Kei Ninomiya, DSM Kei Ninomiya delves into a more thematic depiction of his ideas, exploring the space where gender and age are not separate but move together in synthesis.
Authenticity lies at the core of this collection: a playground of radical creative freedom and a boundless exploration of fashion’s limits. More structured pieces, such as the blazers, are made to fit loosely and move with the wearer. Tailoring is fluid and unrestricting, made for a contemporary sensibility. Floral headpieces soften the hardness of metal hardware and bondage trousers. Fishnet detailing with pins adds an intriguing layer to the fabric and resonates with a punk aesthetic that protests against societal norms.
Chain detailing on garments such as blazers and button-down shirts lifts everyday pieces into a look that stands out. One standout piece is the boxy leather jacket with chain fringing and safety-pin detailing across the arms: hardened, certain of its power. The look is paired with a white button-down covered in handwritten script and blue jeans with a studded belt wrapped through the loops.
Safety pins and belts are repeated on trousers and ties, creating a distinct separation from traditional pieces. Pinstripe trousers and shirt jackets are adorned with buttons of all sizes and in various shades, creating a unique look and proving that it can be fun to take a different approach and present oneself however one chooses. Deconstruction recurs throughout the show, giving everyday basics a sharper update.
DSM works with in-house designers and outside partners to unleash their creativity and individual takes on what fashion and design mean to them. A shared canvas, the label allows them to make their mark on Dover Street Market and share space with their peers in an encouraging, thriving environment. Debuting in a city famous for its ancient architecture and long history, the collection finds a captivating backdrop for the way the contemporary thrives among the past: everything, all at once.
