Being ahead of your time makes you special because it means you have a futuristic vision that few others possess. Your horizon is broader than that of most people. But sometimes, that can leave you feeling displaced, as though you don’t quite belong to the time you actually inhabit. Courrèges, a house that has always been two steps ahead, is making history with Drew Henry as its new artistic director, who’s just debuted at Paris Fashion Week.
To truly assess the quality and taste of a collection, we can’t overlook the shoes. In many cases, they’re the pieces that give us the first clues about what’s to come. Courrèges understood this perfectly. Every shoe in the show reinterprets loafers, boots, heels, and flats, and each is brilliantly executed, with an exceptional level of attention to detail. The accessories are, too: necklaces, for example, incorporate the house’s emblematic logo, originally created in 1967 as a tribute to its founder, André Courrèges.
Before becoming Courrèges’ new artistic director, Henry worked with some of the most influential names and brands in contemporary fashion, including Celine, Burberry, JW Anderson, and Phoebe Philo’s eponymous label. Those experiences ultimately led him to this collection, one that fully respects the codes of the house while reinterpreting them through a contemporary lens and his own creative vision. Because yes, even futurism can be reinterpreted. After all, Courrèges has always been deeply connected to the pop aesthetic of the 1960s, which its founder transformed through a vision rooted in technological optimism and belief in the future. But now that we have arrived in the future he once imagined, fashion has evolved in a different direction, perhaps not quite as science-fictional as André Courrèges envisioned.
The show opens with a look that feels somewhat underwhelming compared to what follows, as the collection gradually develops a much more distinctive and striking identity. The Space Age aesthetic is still there at its core, but it has been translated through a contemporary lens. PVC remains present as one of the house’s most recognisable materials, while the silhouettes continue to explore structure, layering, volume, and playful combinations of colour. The result is a collection that stays connected to Courrèges’ futuristic DNA while finding new ways to express it through today’s fashion language.
Throughout the collection, Henry’s perspective and visual language can be seen in the more relaxed attitude of the pieces: from unfinished hems and open belts to his patchwork-like button work. There’s something playful about the way these elements bring two different eras and visions together, while still preserving one of the house’s most iconic signatures: its legendary buttons and distinctive pockets. Through the silhouettes, Henry combines classic references with contemporary sensibilities, constantly reinterpreting them. He hasn’t necessarily created anything radical or groundbreaking in terms of originality. Instead, what stands out is the way he has seamlessly brought together his own ideas with the codes and principles that have defined the house throughout its history.
One of the standout elements is the floral structure used as a vertex-like detail, an elegant addition that feels entirely in line with Courrèges’ language. The colour palette is equally well considered, remaining consistent throughout the collection. It’s built around neutral tones, including white and navy, that allow the bursts of colour in the accessories and selected pieces to stand out, particularly red, orange, and green, with touches of fluorescent hues.
The show itself feels intimate and familiar, which is clearly how Courrèges wants us to experience it. Each chair is different, creating a certain sense of imperfection and everyday reality, because there’s something beautiful in that lack of uniformity. The same warmth comes through at the end of the show, when Henry appears on the runway to take his bow before quickly making his way to embrace his parents, who stand smiling proudly after witnessing their son’s major debut at the French fashion house. It’s a simple, genuine moment that brings a very human touch to an otherwise futuristic collection.
With his debut, Drew Henry makes his vision clear while showing a deep respect for the historic principles that have shaped Courrèges. And today, one of André Courrèges’ most iconic statements feels more relevant than ever: “We no longer walk through life. We run, we dance. You drive a car, you take a plane. Your clothes should be able to move too.”
