"Comfortable" corsetry, Medici collars, and Elizabeth Taylor—Demna Gvasalia’s decade at Balenciaga has officially come to an end. Balenciaga has been Demna’s creative atelier since 2015. A Georgian-born designer known for challenging and sometimes completely dismantling luxury norms, he turned oversized silhouettes, streetwear aesthetics, and exaggerated shoulders into high-fashion staples.
For his final bow, the designer took us straight into the wardrobe of the Parisian bourgeoisie: severe tailoring, monumentally structured jackets, and collars reminiscent of Nosferatu. Photographed throughout Paris, the looks celebrated the city where Demna began his fashion journey, making this collection feel more personal and poetic.
The standout garments played with shape and structure: tulip lapels, elegantly framed faces, sculptural Medici collars, and corsetry, usually synonymous with discomfort, were re-engineered to feel easy and modern. Presenting technical silk bomber jackets lighter than air, while summer taffeta "business" blousons and airy car coats felt effortlessly wearable. And then there's the biker-inspired cashmere-vicuña maxi coat, an instant favourite.
Demna’s usual sense of humour was evident in playful details like briefcases cleverly transformed into jewellery box-inspired laptop cases. Personalised touches replaced traditional logos, with bags bearing the wearer's name. Tailoring crafted in collaboration with four family-run ateliers from Naples produced adaptable suits originally fitted on a bodybuilder but flattering on diverse body types, highlighting Demna’s belief that clothing should adjust to people, not the other way around.
References and tributes are never missing in fashion shows, and this one made it especially clear. Cristóbal Balenciaga's influence appeared through nostalgic details, such as the houndstooth "Danielle suit," which blended past elegance with contemporary style, and a floral-sequined skirt suit recalling Demna's own family memories. The finale gown, made from seamless Guipure lace, embodied Balenciaga’s classic elegance.
Demna’s lifelong fascination with Old Hollywood glamour, as he once put it, “a perpetual obsession of mine,” was central to the show, with gowns inspired by iconic stars. Naomi Campbell dazzled in a black sequined gown recalling Marilyn Monroe, while Kim Kardashian paid tribute to Elizabeth Taylor in a feathered coat paired with Taylor’s actual diamond earrings from jeweller Lorraine Schwartz, who contributed over 1,000 carats of custom high jewellery to accessorise the collection.
Accessories struck a balance between whimsy and sophistication: vintage-inspired couture fans, floral brooches crafted from recycled atelier materials, and Balenciaga’s very first handmade couture sneaker. The unique soundtrack featured the voices of Balenciaga’s team members, each stating their names, a subtle yet heartfelt tribute to the collective behind the brand.
As Demna departs Balenciaga for Gucci, his final collection marks the end of an era, one celebrated for craftsmanship, innovation, and a respectful nod to fashion history.
