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Opening to an orchestra of crashing waterfalls, is how Proenza Schouler's Spring/Summer 2023 collection started. Staged inside the Hall des Lumières, the models with their hair slicked back from fresh bare faces emerged. And approaching 20 years of classic simplicity and striking eclecticism American design duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez looked to the future, using the lens of the past to do so. “We’re working on a project for next September that’s a compilation of all 20 years,” Hernandez signalled after the introduction of their collection.

Arca introduced this avant-garde chapter. Opening the runway presentation wearing a draped octopus ink black tank top, with the hem tucked underneath one shoulder, to reveal the foam white fringing grazing her bare midriff and paired with a bubble skirt. From there, a parade of models stepped out from the waterfall projected marble architecture, each design referencing the duo’s individual and shared narratives. Flamenco ruffles decorated the hems of sheer lace trousers and oversized bell sleeves cascaded from the arms of form fitting mini dresses, paying homage to Hernandez’s Cuban roots.

Spring/Summer 2023 presented a distinctive unrestrained contrast to the masculine tailored silhouettes which governed Fall 2022 Ready-To-Wear and Resort 2023. Engineered by exploring the individuality and fluidity of the natural landscape, the abstraction translated itself in the silhouettes of ruched leather skirts and gleaming golden crochet dresses.

Sabrina Roman
Monica Feudi / Courtesy of Proenza Schouler

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