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3,2,1... action! On rails, after three long years of waiting and with leather and lace as the absolute protagonists, we were finally able to see Mugler on the catwalks again. A show full of unforgettable and iconic moments such as Arca's performance, an unexpected act that left the audience speechless as the artist approached an audience member to take their bag off their hands.

The last collection that the brand presented at a fashion week was in 2020 and yesterday Casey Cadwallader, the brand's creative director, dazzled us with one of the most eagerly awaited shows of the week. A catwalk that took the Mugler spirit to transform and reinvent the show into a performative action.

In recent years, Mugler has become accustomed to surprising us in his presentations with their dynamic videos, full of camera movements, seductive characters and a catchy soundtrack. Yesterday we were able to see how the brand embodied this concept on a catwalk by creating a show and a film set at the same time.

It all happened inside the Parisian cultural complex La Villette, where faces such as Dominique Jackson, Ziwe, Eva Herzigova, Debra Shaw, Paloma Elsesser or Arca, entered doing a performance on a mobile stand with a dolly camera, used in filming to make camera movements, to then get off and do the catwalk route, while another dolly recorded them in movement. All of this was broadcast on a giant screen at the top of a staircase in the middle of the pavilion. A visual discourse that makes us think about communication, social networks and the future of fashion.

As I said at the beginning, leather and lace were the main protagonists of yesterday's show, Cadwallader impressed us with a story in black, with brief touches of color such as brown, pink, the red of a sensual lingerie dress that mixed a shiny fabric with lace, white or the blue that was found in some deconstructed denim garments. The collection follows a futuristic and geometric silhouette, the looks are full of lines that structure the body and architectural shapes, composed of several pieces or with cuts and openings that make it look like. The broad shoulders are contrasted with waists cinched by magnificent corsets and as a finishing touch we could see complementing several of the looks the Spiral Curve 01 bag, Casey Cadwallader's first design for the brand.

Alvaro Bochert

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