A show designed to observe, in collaboration with the Korean artist Geumhyung Jeong, who developed a series of video performances for the occasion, in which she examined the relationship between her own body and the clothes. Some of them showed how hands carefully touched the cuffs of a shirt or a fly, in others we could see the artist compassionately folding clothes on tables, an intimate approach that was also reflected on the catwalk through its layout. Its elements made us think that we were taking part in a contemporary vision associated with everyday life, as if we were watching a passer-by in the street.
Actresses Emma Corrin and Mia Goth were responsible for opening and closing the show, respectively, in which glazes and transparencies create a play of superimposed layers that reveal the silhouette of the models. A feminine vision with geek/nerdy touches, close to a librarian. With their hair tousled and their keys dangling, we are led to think of the rush... Perhaps they forgot to put on their trousers, accidentally tucked their jumper into their tights or didn't have time to take a last look in the mirror.
On the catwalk we found wool ensembles and structured coats, knitted cardigans as the main protagonists along with skirts, minis or knee-length, the latter in chiffon playing with layers. Classic fabrics such as corduroy or tweed took over jackets and skirts. Transparent dresses with shiny 3D details added a more sophisticated touch. Mini babydoll dresses with coloured tights or more sporty garments such as leggings and neoprene sweatshirts were decontextualised to enter an elegant universe accompanied by classic jackets and blazers. Elements of an equation that shows, in the Creative Director's own words, “How fashion and fashion design can change perceptions, of things we think we know. It's an invitation to reconsider.”
Caramel colours, browns, greys and blacks were the main harmonies of this collection, and green, purple and blue ranges were added in a relaxed way, with a touch of salmon. The accessories remained classic, we could see the already legendary matelassé bags, elbow bags, adorned with keys, kitten heels with heeled and pointed toes, peep toes and trainers, the latter in collaboration with New Balance, completed this proposal along with the socks that took on great prominence. All in a presentation that appeals directly to the spectator and proposes a reflection on his or her relationship with fashion.