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“The sunset is not a phenomenon of the sun – taking place on the horizon” the show notes read. “But a phenomenon of the body setting the sky on fire,” Creative Director Francesco Risso crafted Marni's Spring/Summer 2023 collection after being inspired by the dawn and dusk of the Italian countryside, however it was held under the Manhattan Bridge in Brooklyn against the theatrical orchestral strains of a composition by Dev Hynes and the rumbling cacophony of overhead trains.

Models stepped out of the fog, in an indomitable display of psychedelic prints and colours painted by the hues of the sun. And dynamically blinding tones of saturated blood orange, blazing cardinal and blinding yellow rose in the shapes of bohemian knitwear forms, eccentrically printed abstract garments stamped with images of the warm hued orb, and electrifyingly dyed tailored outerwear all of which evoked the works of artist Flaminia Veronesi. Risso also designed for the contemporary sun-catcher cutting spherical shapes out of skin baring tank tops.

The makeup both underscored and exaggerated the message. Yadim Carranza interwove custom eye-arresting pigments before painting them across model’s foreheads in a light to dark effect, echoing the theatrical display of the garments.

Marni’s transatlantic journey to show at New York Fashion Week, marked the second jump of a luxury European powerhouse to do so, a Fendi show, celebrating 25 years of the brand’s baguette bag took place the day before. The runway presentation, kickstarted it’s “world tour” vision, in which the Italian house will travel to a selection of global cities ahead of returning to it’s home capital of Milan for the 30th anniversary in 2024.

Sabrina Roman

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