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Go big or go home. This was the saying Nicolas Ghesquière took to heart for his latest Spring/Summer 2023 collection for Louis Vuitton. Turning to the French visual artist Philippe Pareno to create a dramaturgic installation which resembles a blossoming flower with a futuristic twist, the show design set the tone for the imposing, overblown clothing parading the runway.

Opening the show at the Cour Carré de Louvre was none-other than Squid Game actress and overnight sensation HoYeon Jung, who wore a two-piece white ensemble, most eye-catching for its magnified zippers on both the top and bottom half of the look. The next few looks followed a similar fashion, all exaggerated through pleats and oversized zippers.

Femininity took centre-stage this season, notably the reevaluation of the “proportions of its clothing and its adjuncts” where “the codes of femininity unsettle scale,” according to the show notes. Belts, buckles, zippers, buttons, clasps – any and all details the Maison has become master of – have all been given the triple-XL expansion. But not just the physical ones. The trompe-l’œil details also received this treatment, notably on the leather looks which saw illusion belts and buckles printed onto the fabric, in one piece taking up the entirety of the sleeve of a suit jacket, down to the ankle of its matching trousers.

The accessories were not forgotten either – Louis Vuitton enhanced its bags to the max, chain and carabiner included. Though when oversized is served, it must be balanced with its small-sized counterpart, which here, manifested itself in the form of a mini classic monogrammed LV trunk. Playing not only with sizing but also also materials, Ghesquière reimagines the LV woman and this time, she is unafraid of making a – literally – big statement.

Juliette Eleuterio

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