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The sunny city of San Diego in California has been the venue chosen by Louis Vuitton to present their Cruise collection. Architect Louis Kahn designed the Salk Institute in La Jolla with the idea of worshipping the sun as the creator of nature. As a building dedicated to biomedical research – and with technological innovation being one of main Nicolas Ghesquière's references – the Creative Director is using the power of the sun to frame the French house in this new phase. Welcoming the sun as the star of this fashion show, we present Louis Vuitton Cruise 2023.

Ghesquière's an avid fan of science fiction and retro-futurism. So it's no surprise to see complex silhouettes with metallic fabrics reflecting the Californian sunset. As much to be absorbed as to be protected from it, the rigidity and fluidity in the textures gave food for thought as to whether we were looking at a collection inspired by Dune, Star Trek, or even mythology. The brand says that it is about “creating the illusion of a metallic palette that enters into dialogue with the sunset,” – through the use of linen, jacquard, silk, leather and tweed, for example – although we wonder if it is more a question of seeking an aesthetic balance in the wake of recent events.

In addition to the sun, other stars were also present as the parade was accompanied by the Apatow sisters – Iris and Maude –, Emma Roberts, Gemma Chan, and Ana de Armas, among others. Dressed in different garments from the collection such as metallic mini-dresses or mesh textures, what was clear to us was that the square-soled, high-top boots in the purest equestrian style are back.

Maria Antón

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