Anderson’s love for art and craftsmanship is interwoven in Loewe’s DNA and the collections he designs for the brand. This is one of the many reasons why this pairing works so well, and has been doing so for many years now. At the recent presentation during Paris Fashion Week Men’s, three sculptures took centre stage – literally. Made by American artist Lynda Benglis, whose career spans over six decades, the monumental fountains “pulsate with an energy that is infectious,” the press release says. And it’s true: the fluidity of the water, the shimmering of the water drops in the sunlight, or the highly complex textures of the sculptures translated into the SS24 collection, which Loewe defines as “a study on perspective.”
After Succession’s global success and the debates it opened about ‘quiet luxury,’ Anderson seems to respond to the cultural conversation with a cheeky answer. We’re seeing the decay of the logo, a much more muted, even ‘discreet’ take on fashion: pretty normative shirts, jeans, blazers, chinos and knits. Everything sounds very casual, right? Well, that’s where the British designer’s cheekiness comes into play: elongating the silhouettes, making them oversized and, the most viral of them all, bedazzling every piece of clothing. The crystal-encrusted pieces range from wide-leg trousers to button-up polo shirts, to sculptural asymmetrical tops and blazers, as well as accessories including sunglasses and shoes. A festival of all things shimmery that, thanks to Loewe’s and Anderson’s identities, don’t fall into an easy remake of Y2K’s bling-bling-mania.
But there is more to be celebrated. Loewe also presents lots of knitwear like argyle sweaters, cardigans, and double-collared jumpers, which gives the collection a super cozy feeling. Just like the trousers-turned-shoes, or shoes-turned-trousers, as you prefer. That is, a super relaxed silhouette of trousers that don’t get to a hemline but rather a sole.