It was shocking to go to the office and find a huge, 10-kg package waiting at the door. What was that about? With childlike curiosity, we carefully unpacked and checked the oversized artist’s portfolio holding a series of sixteen bus-stand size folded posters starring Adam Bainbridge, Anthea Hamliton, Jadé Fadojutimi, Louis, and more wearing some of the key looks of the season. But there was more: an array of tools and materials including a canvas tool bag, a roll of wallpaper designed by Anthea Hamilton, a roll of wallpaper borders depicting all the looks from the collection, wallpaper glue, a brush, scissors, a ceramic disc infused with beetroot scent, a catalogue raisonné, and the sheet music for Thomas Tallis’ Spem in Alium.
So what about the clothes? Continuing with his escapist approach, Jonathan Anderson has developed a collection full of theatricality and sculpturality. Inflated volumes, protruding flaps, outsized hips and giant dancing knots are mixed with balloon sleeves and skirts, hoops, lots of curves, folds, and flaps, resulting in dramatic silhouettes. Using rich fabrics like crinolines, the Spring/Summer 2021 collection has an aura of grandiosity and an even more elevated luxurious feel than usual.