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A sort of prom dress in gold lamé worn as an apron opened Loewe’s Men Fall/Winter 2020 collection. Two other similar looks followed during the show, including psychedelic black and white prints or elegant satin blazers. For next season, Jonathan Anderson “pairs textures and forms in blunt juxtapositions of opacity and shine, curves and perpendicularity, satin and double-face wool, crystals and knit, double-breasted and prom dress, kinetic motifs and plainness”, the show note explains. An ode to the beauty of opposites when you know how to make them work together.

If the two previous collections by Anderson took us to faraway lands, a sort of escapism from the crude reality we’ve been living in for the past years, the Fall/Winter 2020 season is taking us somewhere else: our childhood. With quirky, fun felt hats and shoes that bring us back memories from years dominated by carelessness and the lack of responsibilities, Anderson presents us with a feeling of optimism. Furthermore, Loewe’s Creative Director “works on notions of motion and tension, with a sense of optimism pushed to an obscure edge”, the note continues. “An idea of scorched glamour comes to the fore.”

This scorched glamour is translated into elegant coats with a twist – big collars, poncho-like capes, eye-catchy prints like plaid and stripes, or bicolour models –, rich materials like leather, satin, or cashmere, embellished jumpers, or decorative chains. But there is also the playfulness of childhood in accessories, for example, like the maxi jumbo Elephant bags – some of which also come in embellished, studded form – as well as a new model resembling a sheep. In all, Anderson delivers another beautiful collection where he strips things to technique “to let the grain of the material dialogue with the couture opulence of the shapes.”

Arnau Salvadó
Backstage & details
Kevin Tachman

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