“Since fashion deals with people’s bodies and topics such as gender, race, age and size, I think it is inherently political”, the designer told us some time ago. By creating pieces that play with the dichotomies of the ideal female body, he wants us to feel uncomfortable and, therefore, make us wonder and reflect on what we’ve seen. “I used to love to explain my work and I saw it as a way to engage people in conversations about topics that were important to me. Now, I think that getting my message across with just the work and allowing the viewer to draw their own conclusions is more effective and is a greater merit of success. I think there are empowerment and beauty in the ugly and unconventional, and I hope my work conveys that.”
Reimagined romantic Victorian nightgowns, made oversized with layers of tulle, combined with printed T-shirts and patent leather corsets. Shades of deep red dye, metal hardware piercings and reinterpreted bustiers. Pieces that are both fetish and spooky. Also, it is impossible to look at his show without being mesmerised by the significant role makeup plays in it. Boldly painted faces with thick layers of makeup that kind of recall both horror-inspired looks and iconic heavy metal bands.
In his latest collection, Fabian also used makeup on clothes by creating eccentric prints on dresses and t-shirts. “For me, makeup and clothes go hand-in-hand, so to merge them together is the ultimate fantasy for me. I was always mesmerised by the ritualistic aspects of femininity and I think makeup is the ultimate form of that. Painting your face can make you feel so many different ways: it can feel like warpaint, or a mask, or even like witchcraft, as you mix together all the lotions and potions to make you look younger and more beautiful”, adds Fabian.