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Comfortable, relaxed silhouettes, a mix of sporty and tailored looks, airy and technical materials, and loads of shiny fabrics. Emporio Armani unveiled its Spring/Summer 2020 collection in Milan, which shows a shift towards a younger generation – some of the garments had ‘Generation EA’ written across sleeves – while keeping its characteristic suit-and-tie looks.

Overall, the new collection by fashion veteran Giorgio Armani looks very energetic. Maybe, it’s because the 84-year-old designer’s energy doesn’t cease to grow and expand. Maybe, it’s because he has merged Emporio’s collection together with EA7, Armani’s pure-sport line – which includes three looks of harnesses attached to white silk parachutes. Maybe it’s because of the colour palette, ranging from bronze to green, including blue, gold, orange, garnet, or fuchsia. Or maybe it’s all the above.

As usual, Armani has sent a lot of looks down the runway – ninety-six to be precise. And those are if we speak strictly of the collection. Because the Italian house – actually, the above-mentioned EA7 line – is responsible for designing the uniforms of Italian athletes in the upcoming 2020 Olympic Games, held in Tokyo. After the last model walked, around thirty athletes – both Olympians and Paralympians – took the stage over with head-to-toe black, only disrupted by the country’s tricolor flag, which has been reshaped into a big circle in the middle of the zipped sweatshirts.

This commitment to sports and technical wear has trickled down both EA7’s and Emporio Armani’s collections. For Spring/Summer 2020, the Italian house presents a series of looks characterized by comfort. It doesn’t matter if it’s suits, jackets, trousers, jumpers, blazers or shirts; they’re all made of breezy, airy materials that give the silhouettes a relaxed undertone. For example, there are two vibrant suits – in salmon and in fuchsia – whose double-breasted top parts are complemented with a thin, sporty belt (and the overall look is finished with chunky sneakers and no t-shirt underneath, thus creating a subtly elegant yet comfortable appearance).

In addition to the harnesses attached to the white parachutes, Armani explores this accessory further and presents more practical variations, perfect for travelling or even for music festivals – how many phones, keys, wallets and other personal items have we lost after a few drinks? Utility wear is also expanded and presented as multi-pocketed vests, also practical for urban environments and everyday life, or in work wear, like a double-breasted khaki jumpsuit.

The main focus of this collection though is on fabrics: shiny and thin as smoking paper – there even is a sheer polo shirt that allows for the wearer’s torso to be completely exposed. Of course, the more formal and classic suits – those that still make Giorgio Armani one of the most coveted designers for A-list male celebrities attending red carpet events – remain (almost) the same. But the rest of the collection, which gracefully mixes the sartorial with the informal and the sporty, is characterized by glimmering fabrics that give the looks a more playful, inhibited, effortlessly cool touch. From crinkled palazzo trousers and jackets to silky blazers, Emporio Armani’s new collection proves that the designer is not going anywhere, that he understands the younger generations and that he can offer interesting options created from his vast experience.

Arnau Salvadó

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