Surrounded by dog eared posters and dirty sheets the models materialise from the angsty depths of a teenage bedroom. As club kids and party princesses spill onto the concrete runway, Dsquared2 presents an epochal representation of teenage liberty.
A messy recombination of stereotypes explodes into the collections, where tops are baby tees; laced and cropped. Pants are double- layered and lax. Trucker caps are embroidered and embellished and hemlines, furred and fringed. These are the skaters outside city subway stations, the ravers in industrial warehouses and the club kid who knows the DJ.
Between star-shaped knees and cutesy cowboy boots, emerges a more seductive undertone to the show. Eponymous in its nature, Temptation presents the allure of adolescence; we see Alexander McQueen-like waistlines, crotchless leather pants and plunging necklines. There’s an undeniable hotness to it all.
Yet as ostentatious as it may appear, this maximalist display is not without its societal examinations. Ruminative of John Galliano's Fall/Winter 2004 Menswear collection, masculine models adorn feminine cuts, their camisoles cropped and floral – a playful acknowledgement of Gen Z’s deconstruction of the gender binary.
We see garments plastered with kitschy logos. Their ironic messages and font play revealing a subversion to the collection, one that begs an examination of youth culture’s obsession with trend cycles and consumerism. With a fashion sphere that’s moving faster than ever, it's hard to keep up. Yet it seems that Dsquared2 have their finger firmly on the pulse.