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First things first: happy Dior-versary, Kim Jones! The British fashion designer turns five at the helm of Dior Men, where his work has redefined and influenced menswear and luxury in every aspect. This Paris Fashion Week Men’s, the Artistic Director has presented one of the most spectacular (and viral) fashion shows of the season, with models coming out of the floor. A lot of showmanship that only contributed to the Summer 2024 collection’s quality and imagination.

“Dior is an Haute Couture House: it is all about the clothes,” states Kim Jones. “At the heart of Dior is silhouette, shape, technique and fabrication of the very highest order. I like to think that in my five years of being here I have never forgotten this,” he continues. Truer words have never been spoken: the French Maison is renowned worldwide for its rich materials, sculptural silhouettes and shapes, and the savoir-faire of hundreds of artisans and craftsmen that contribute, season after season, to the highest-quality standards there is.

Jones knows this, and he also acknowledges the people who paved the way before him. That’s why in this collection, the Dior Men’s Artistic Director pays tribute to the silhouettes of Yves Saint Laurent, the embroideries of Gianfranco Ferré, the cabochons of Monsieur Dior, and the textures of Marc Bohan. “It’s a culture we have inherited from womenswear past and applied to menswear present. And for the first time in our collections, it is a collage of influences from different Dior predecessors and eras we wanted to pay tribute to at once,” Jones concludes.

The Summer 2024 collection plays a lot on contrasts. In the colour palette, which goes from neutrals like beige, navy and grey to an explosion of neon yellow, blue, pink, and green, and even leopard prints. In the silhouettes, which mix womenswear shapes with menswear rich tailoring. And in the ‘mood,’ which mixes the more formal Haute Couture salon elegance with the more subversive streetwear attitude. But one thing unites it all: a sense of playfulness and fun, which comes from this mélange of pop culture imagery and tradition.

Kim Jones presents a collection rich in details, textures, and colours. He plays with tweeds, embroideries, pleats, crepe, and cannage (a staple of the Maison), elevating archetypal menswear pieces like cardigans, polos, and Harrington jackets. He also pays special attention to the accessories: chunky shoes that take inspiration from the Lady Dior bag, handbags ranging from fluorescent Saddles to leather rolled sandwich bags, and Stephen Jones’ super fun, colourful take on beanies. In all, the new Dior Men collection just proves why Kim Jones is the perfect fit for the role, understanding the Maison’s rich past and even richer future. A future that he’s building, weaving, and sketching flawlessly.

Arnau Salvadó

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