With sustainability as one of the driving forces of the fashion agenda, the four-day event hosted a great number of local and international designers showcasing collections majorly made with eco-conscious materials and fabrics – “Sustainability is the future of fashion,” told us Rikke from Baum und Pferdgarten, whose collection was made of almost fifty per cent recycled textiles, for example. But this ‘green mindset’ was present in more than the materials’ composition. Résumé, whose show was on the first day, presented its new collection at a beautiful outdoor venue, where the tall trees surrounding us reminded us of how important nature is (together with the multiple sunflowers elegantly arranged on blue-and-white vases that covered the runway-cum-podium). In addition to sustainability, there were other concerns for designers. Wanna know them? Here’s our review of our favourite shows:

Henrik Vibskov

Henrik Vibskov presented a mesmerizing performance at a public basketball court transformed into a theatrical setting. It wasn’t just a regular fashion show but an act where performers in white kimono-like clothes, with samurai buns and net hats somewhere between bee veils and Japanese kendo fencing masks were pumping deflated sea circles in slow motion. The performers were surrounded by black metal rollers stocked with turquoise floatables while the models walked around them.
The collection was a combination of vibrant textiles, patterns and fun elements like t-shirts with digital prints reading “Screw you barbecue” or featuring knitted and printed sardines stuck in a box, or knitted ship stranded on a bridge. Along with straight suits, embroidered shirts, wrap coats, checkered shorts, peplum skirts, open shoulder dresses, patterned mesh tops and trench coats, the models walked on tricky but artsy wooden block platform shoes wrapped in colourful fabrics. According to Vibskov, the theme of the show, ‘Stuck under the surface’, could mean a lot of things: “It could be the air stuck in inflatables, being stuck in oneself, at the airport, in a traffic jam, in a queue, in a box, on a paper or in the clothes.” It’s noteworthy that ninety per cent of the collection was created by using only organic, recycled and biodegradable fabrics.

Ganni

Ganni had one of the most memorable shows during the fashion week. The show was staged at a small tennis court surrounded by houses whose balconies were packed with curious spectators. The band was preparing for a performance while the runway was stormed by influencers and photographers. The clouds were turning grey, so the Ganni staff distributed biodegradable rain ponchos to the attendees. Before it started raining, models came into view and beloved Danish singer Mø took the stage.
Ganni’s Spring/Summer collection was particular in its choice of colours and combinations between brown knee-long shorts, lilac trousers, beige suits, black Qi Pao-like dresses, wavy denim tops, oversized jeans along with animal print blouses, turtlenecks, knee-high square-headed boots, small statement bags, green dresses and biker jackets. As soon as the catwalk was over and all the models came out for the finale, it started raining heavily, but Mø’s bright energy and her famous song Lean On kept the party going. Models and guests were singing and dancing along with the singer, no matter the storm, disregarding the rain.

Helmstedt

The setup on Helmstedt’s show was like a fairytale. An old chamber of the National Museum was transformed into a beautiful landscape with artificial grass, big red mushrooms, and sculptures of a huge blue grape and red strawberries. The show started with forest sounds while Emilie, the creative director, read out loud a poem she wrote herself. The colours were the soul of the show and the looks were the continuation of the dreamy set. The models walked one after another wearing vivid purple, rainbowish plaid, vibrant green long dresses, fruit-themed pyjamas, clogs, bonnets, babushka scarves, coat styles, jackets, shorts and trousers decorated with mushroom, strawberry, grape and cloud motifs.
After the show, Emilie sat with us for a little chat and talked about her tendency to seek inspiration in nature. “It’s all about the moment when you are in reality yet at the same time in a dream. I wanted to extend on the moment of daydreaming and build up this illusionary universe where you take a break, praise nature and forget about the buzz around.” The collection was playful, colourful and free, different from Danish minimalism but definitely something Danes can deeply relate to.

Baum und Pferdgarten

Surrounded by journalists, Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave shared their ideas about the future of fashion and the inspiration behind their show. “Sustainability is the future of fashion,” said Rikke. “We work a lot with sustainability, forty-four per cent of this collection is made with recycled and ecological materials”, added Helle. They told us that the show was inspired by Bobbi Jene Smith, an American dancer. “While working on this collection, we thought about dancer’s wardrobe, her clothes, what she’s wearing in a studio or at a party or in a café. We then combined a mix of sports wear with ready-to-wear and concentrated on words like liberation, freedom and strength, which was a great way to getting into the silhouettes.”
The collection contained many wearable items like transparent bucket hats, cropped shirts, biker shorts, bodysuits, flounce dresses, patterned leggings, cut-out shirts, checkered suits, light baggy trousers and classy handbags. After asking the designers if they were happy with the result, Rikke answered: “I am not always happy with the result, but today I am, as working with those pale bright colours was something new to us and I hope it was beautiful.” It was indeed.

Freya Dalsjø

Freya Dalsjø is having her moment in the fashion industry. The brand, launched a few years ago, is constantly reaching new heights. The Spring/Summer 2020 show was special in many ways, staged in the north-west area of Copenhagen at Biblioteket, a minimalist venue with huge windows and metallic grey walls that perfectly matched the concept of the collection. Neat, skillfully crafted garments made with architectural accuracy brought the clothes to the next level. The futuristic vibe along with the industrial sounds filling the runway reminded the onlookers of the movie The Matrix. Models were wearing Neo-like black sunglasses, looking strong and sexy like Trinity dressed in tight blazers, short crumpled skirts, vests, moon-like surfaced cut-out tops, silhouette dresses and eye-catching necklaces looking like flower stamens. At the end of the show, the designer was surrounded by family members and friends celebrating her great success.