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After sweeping the Fashion Awards in London last December – including best designer and best brand –, Daniel Lee presented Bottega Veneta’s Fall/Winter 2020 collection with much-awaited expectation and, naturally, higher standards from the audience. But he delivered a consistent and beautiful collection. The Italian house’s new creative director sent his third collection down the runway with lots of fringes, interesting colour-blocking combinations and a luxurious approach to tech-wear in the closing looks.

In Milan, we’re starting to see fringes will become a trend next season – and we’re here for it. Daniel Lee’s approach to the decorative element is elevated to ultimate refinement in dresses, skirts, pants, and long coats, but also in handbags – another category he won (best accessory designer) at the Fashion Awards –, leaving the house’s signature intrecciato technique ‘undone’. The result looks thought-out, original and combines the house’s craftsmanship with a touch of punk DIY.

But moving beyond trends, Lee’s proposal is solid, coherent and not that far from what he’s been presenting the past two seasons. Naturally evolving and improving as he gets to know more in-depth the house’s codes, he keeps presenting the intrecciato technique in unexpected pieces: this time, two cream vests (worn by male models but apt for anyone) stole the show. His more technical approach to garment-making also led him to his closing looks, a range of jackets, capes, trench coats and even a jumpsuit – all in dark, charcoal grey. But daring to use bright colours too, Bottega Veneta’s creative director also presented dresses, knitwear, skirts, trousers and coats in bright red, pistachio, purple, dark green, as well as pink – especially remarkable are the colour-blocking dresses, which look as if the models wore two dresses at a time.

In all, the collection featured many comfortable pieces with elegance at their core – trench coats, double-breasted coats, long dresses, tailored jackets and pants in soft colours like beige, navy or black with relaxed silhouettes and fine, cosy fabrics – but not forgetting about the more playful, disruptive side – bedazzled pants and dresses, voluminous sleeves, and the handbags with endless fringes.

David Valero

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