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Such a simple concept like exploring the four elements, or even just one of them, and in this case, earth, can seem limiting or not even creative enough, but Sarah Burton's take on this seems effortless, timeless and devastatingly beautiful. She does so through the representation of different stages that you can find nature and Earth in, from big piles of mulch – which she explained will later be turned into paintings –, which are essentially dead leaves, in the middle of the runway, to more abstract and sartorial interpretations of mycelia, which are root-like structures of ecosystems which keep fungi alive.

Showing for the third time in New York City, this time around their Fall/Winter 2022 collection, they have managed to make this special occasion even more special through an intricate yet simple offering that has managed to completely wow us. From fantastically embroidered psychedelic mushrooms that actually reflect their real-life colours (these being acid green and yellow, electric blue and bright red), whose mycelia is represented through silk fringe, dark and sombre leather looks, sharply cut pantsuits to buoyant and structured brightly coloured dresses.

Though mushroom leather was not used in the collection, Burton says that her team is running trials with it and other substitute leathers and she states that 85% of the materials have been upcycled. This is just a continuation of Lee Alexander McQueen's fascination with the concept of nature versus machine or artifice, whether the appropriation and reinterpretation of natural elements through clothes are possible, insightful and can be actually innovative – as it seems that everything has been done before.

Mercedes Rosés

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