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A male-controlled fashion industry, and the codes of dress it has written, often present sensuality and objectification as two inextricable phenomena. Yet we are now seeing a generation of designers, many of whom are women, who treat the human form not as a fashion object, but rather subjects unto themselves. Nensi Dojaka’s work joins this tradition, showing skin with a grace and distinct style that has already led the young designer through a series of successful seasons. The 2021 LVMH prize winner and online retailer have just released a new capsule collection, and the seven pieces, presented in an entirely neutral pallet, revisit key items from her past work with a refined colour approach inspired by the paintings of Hilma Af Klint. The fabrics are similarly lightweight; her silks and organzas arrive perfectly in time for the summer’s hottest months.

The Albanian designer’s work speaks a language of empowered feminine elegance, sensually redefining traditional ready-to-wear garment forms through a lingerie informed vernacular. Her womenswear often works to expose the body using lingerie design notes – cut-outs, sheer fabrics and straps are a few of her usual devices – occasionally erotic yet attenuated by elegant tailoring and flexible layering possibilities, and so this collection's pieces range from a bra to a midi dress, in various lengths and proportions. The collection demonstrates a restraint, a mature elegance, that signals a promising future for the young designer. That said, the capsule will surely grace your Instagram feed within a matter of weeks.

Isaac Crown Manesis

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