Analysing the reasons behind the success of Ukrainian Fashion Week, which has become one of the essential events in Eastern European fashion, implies dwelling on its strengths compared to other international fashion calls. Possibly one of its great differential factors is the ability they have to merge young talent and established creators into a shared calendar that, though preserving a space dedicated to the promotion of emerging brands, coexists with an extensive programme of creatives who have already crossed borders, having made their brands profitable businesses with an international projection.

One more issue that cannot be overlooked is the fact that Ukrainian Fashion Week has perfectly understood that this industry is not only about fashion shows and presentations, but it is an active conversation in which all agents of the sector have to participate to make real progress. Focusing on sustainability, the organisation held an event in which some of the great names in international fashion took part, under the title Be Sustainable! Fashion Summit. An event hosted by Daria Marusyk in which Patrick Duffy from Global Fashion Exchange or Niamh Tuft (Fashion Revolution) participated, among many others.

But the differential factor compared to other fashion weeks, is that despite its exponential growth and global development, this event maintains its essence. A DNA defined by collaboration, the involvement of the organisation and the coexistence of a recent past marked by continued instability with a promising future and a clear optimism in the collections presented on the catwalk. Just look at Iryna Danylevska, co-founder and head of the Ukrainian Fashion Week organizing committee, taking care of guests and the press, trying to make sure everything is perfect. Or Alexandra Dimitriievych, head of the international department, involving the attendees in the different activities.

An increasingly unusual scene on the fashion circuit, where pyramidal structures make it difficult to see those who are truly in charge in action during these days. Perhaps truth, honesty and growing with the designers they trusted from the beginning are the components of their success formula. Let’s review some of the most spectacular collections seen on the catwalk.

Dzhus
Founded in 2010 by the Ukrainian designer and stylist Irina Dzhus, this is undoubtedly one of the essential brands in the current international positioning of Ukrainian fashion. A vision of fashion marked by avant-garde without neglecting utilitarianism. Dzhus’s experimental creations have obvious references to Japan. From Issey Miyake to the scenic power of Comme des Garçons, her particular aesthetic knows no borders while projecting a unique DNA made in Ukraine. Short-listed for the International Woolmark Prize back in 2015, her new Spring/Summer 2022 collection, Physique, reflects on artificial standards and its current reconsideration, the codes by which human appearance is governed and the contrast of a society that changes ever faster.

Iron Thread
Starting from the universe of angels and having titled his collection Celestials, the proposal presented by Iron Thread shows that a claim integrated into a mature show is much more effective. A way of understanding fashion – with slogans such as “normal is dead” or “fake” that brings together the earthly and the super earthly world in a complete collection where meaning and quality are at the same level of the balance. From white to black, yellow, earth colours and Klein blue, his technical and functional garments slide with force on the catwalk, with a diverse casting that dismantles the already antiquated pillars on which fashion was erected until not long ago. An invitation to revolutionise the fashion system.

Yadviga Netyksha
Founded in 2016 by designer Yadviga Netyksha after winning the young designers competition titled Look into the future, this menswear brand has achieved something very difficult in this industry: to merge the past and the future while getting a style recognisable at first glance. The man whom she envisions wearing her garments has a mysterious aura, some dark energy. From jaw-dropping military-style coats with badges and chevrons to a floral-patterned high-neck jumper, before culminating in a spectacular floral headdress that closes the show. It gives the feeling that her man is built in the form of layers that have to be shed to reach its true essence.

Roussin
Being a resident of Ukrainian Fashion Week for 5 years, Roussin is one of the brands that best embodies the social reality and current problems of modern times. A rebellious and urban spirit that leaves no one indifferent on the catwalk, and that breaks with classicism and romanticism to bet everything on personality, surprise and the celebration of difference. A pregnant woman, a dog or an older woman dressed in a sweatshirt are some of the stellar appearances of this presentation held in the late afternoon, in which sustainability was also very present. An ode to personal stories, to the breakdown of conventional parametres, illuminated through reflective hues to make uniqueness more visible than ever.

Ffface.me x Finch
Seeing Kateryna Biakova and Maksym Holub, the creative duo at the helm of Finch – and who we spoke to a few months ago – is always good news. And it is that they represent the evolution of Ukrainian fashion, the search for new formats and solutions with which to avoid being stuck in the past and evolve towards a new scene with a marked digital character. After launching a clothing collection with an Instagram filter with Ffface.me last year, they now join forces again to collaborate with seven international artists on a collection that defends augmented reality. “Today the majority opinion of you is based on how you represent yourself on social media and not in real life. We've created clothes that look great where we live – online,” says Dmitry Kornilov, co-founder and CEO of Ffface.me.