Virginie Viard's Chanel takes a detour from the Parisian runway, setting sail for the vibrant port city of Marseille for its Cruise 2025 collection. The rooftop of Le Corbusier's architectural marvel, Cité Radieuse, sets the essence of the French Riviera and is now the perfect background to show the collection—a blend of modern and vintage influences.
Embodying a spirit of freedom, the Chanel Cruise 2024/25 show takes place at the MAMO, Centre d’art de la Cité Radieuse in Marseille. The venue itself reflects the architectural impact of Le Corbusier's visionary "vertical city," the Cité Radieuse, completed in 1952. Its concrete exterior stands in contrast to the pops of colour on the balconies. This influence continues to inspire Virginie Viard's Cruise 2025 Collection, where she merges aesthetics with Le Corbusier's utopian vision through intricate embroidery, diving hoods, sequined jackets, and swimwear.
Under the unpredictable weather of Marseille, the collection's looks grace the runway, showcasing the house's version of high-low dressing for the French Riviera. Signature Chanel tweed? Of course, but this time reimagined with Le Corbusier-inspired colours, featuring a grid-like design on a cropped tweed jacket and matching skirt, playing with layering techniques. This unexpected mix slowly points at a potential expansion of the Chanel target audience, reaching out to a younger, fashion-forward generation without sacrificing the label's timeless elegance.
The most literal ode to Marseille’s aquatic culture in the collection is the sea-inspired colour palettes, patterns, and textures: Crochet skirt sets in grey, teal, and yellow resemble hues one might see along an ocean floor. From gilded starfish and seashell charms adorning shimmering gold mesh, playful fish swim and pearls adorn various pieces, adding a touch of timeless sophistication. Swimsuits receive a refreshingly modern update with hooded styles, capturing the hearts and flashes of the audience.
Embracing the latest coquette trend, Chanel embodies femininity with bows, ruffles, and lace, infusing each look with a romantic allure that pays homage to the brand's legacy while embodying Viard's contemporary vision.