Confused? Don't know what's going on? Don't worry; we're all in this together. The past weeks have been nothing but announcement after announcement, press release after press release. How many more "appointed in" and "departs from" do we have left in us before losing in our minds? Not many, to be honest. For the sake of your sanity and ours, we look back at the recent movements in the fashion industry, and we give you an update of the loudest rumours of the moment. Don't be surprised if when you read this, some of them have come true.
Loewe
Allegedly out: Jonathan Anderson
Allegedly in: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez
Allegedly out: Jonathan Anderson
Allegedly in: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez
Many rumours have been heard during the past week in the inner circle of the fashion industry about who goes where; one of the strongest was the Proenza Schouler duo, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, arriving at the Spanish Loewe, implying Jonathan Anderson's exit as he’s the most betted option to go to Dior. The recent announcement of McCollough and Hernandez leaving their brand does nothing but validate our theories about the two designers taking the lead of a house that has managed to become one of the most vital and interesting in the current fashion zeitgeist thanks to Anderson's touch and mind.
Jonathan in Loewe created a new language for fashion that we all can speak, understand, and identify with but that still feels dreamy and creative enough to make us find in it an escape from the reality of concepts and creations with the unique savoir-faire and inventiveness that can only be attributed to him. McCollough and Hernandez have made a name for themselves, with numerous awards and recognitions and a successful brand they've carried since the beginning with positive results. Their new tenure is one of the biggest challenges of the industry: stepping out of the shadow of a man that became the heart and the soul of the brand he worked for.
Dior
Allegedly out: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Kim Jones
Allegedly in: Jonathan Anderson
Allegedly out: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Kim Jones
Allegedly in: Jonathan Anderson
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior has been one of passions; you either love it or you hate it. The general opinion seems to be more leaning towards the second option during the past years, but the numbers exhibit the opposite, perhaps explaining why her tenure has lasted as long as it has. Kim Jones at Dior is another story. Well liked and always highlighted for his masterful tailoring skills and the ability to update the traditional sartorial to fit the contemporary taste with interesting details, collaborations, and reinterpretations, his last collections haven't been as loudly received as before, and his position on the brand has started to become a bit questionable.
Dior Men and Women give the impression of being two separate brands and universes; they barely seem to have any link or connection to each other, something that may change with the arrival of Jonathan Anderson to the helm of both divisions. Probably the strongest and most hyped rumour of all this names and brands chaos, Anderson would be in charge of reshaping a house that has seemed to lose its route and guide it to a new direction. Which one? That's still yet to be known.
Maison Margiela
Out: John Galliano
Allegedly in: Glenn Martens
Out: John Galliano
Allegedly in: Glenn Martens
This one is a tricky one. Of what we are sure is that Galliano is no longer part of their universe, as we well discussed when the heartbreaking announcement of his departure surfaced the past December. Glenn Martens has been used to handling two big projects, Diesel and Y/Project, at the same time and mastered the art of balancing both, as he himself said in our interview on METAL 48; however, his agenda has suddenly become more loose with his departure from Y/Project this past September, five months prior to the definitive closure of the brand. Martens, a Belgian, just like Margiela, graduated from the Royal Academy of Antwerp, just like Margiela, creative director of Diesel, a Renzo Rosso-owned brand, just like Margiela, seems to be not only a clearly viable but also a very interesting and nice option to take the reins of the legendary house. It's a big challenge to follow the steps of the masterful run of Galliano, but it is one we are sure if someone has the vision to overcome it, it's Glenn.
Recent movements
The last year has been marked with the countless movements of creative directors jumping from one brand to the other, and it seems the game will keep on going in 2025. Fashion giants like Bottega Veneta, Chanel, or Dries Van Noten are set to start their new journeys guided by their recently appointed names, while some others like Alexander McQueen or Valentino already gave us a taste of the new tenures and what they are representing for the visual identity and the codes of their house. However, some names, some very relevant names, are on the air, and we can't help but wonder what their future will look like. Is Hedi starting his own brand? Will we ever enjoy Pierpaolo's magic again? Who’s going to lead Helmut Lang? Here’s a quick recap of the most relevant movements, who's in, and who’s out.
Celine
Out: Hedi Slimane
In: Michael Rider
Hedi Slimane future: unclear
Out: Hedi Slimane
In: Michael Rider
Hedi Slimane future: unclear
Alexander McQueen
Out: Sarah Burton
In: Sean McGirr
Out: Sarah Burton
In: Sean McGirr
Helmut Lang
Out: Peter do
In: not announced
Out: Peter do
In: not announced
