At Vaquera, getting dressed is never just about getting dressed. The Spring/Summer 2027 show proves that fashion can become the most fascinating act of performance when done well. The collection encapsulates the essence of the New York-born brand: theatrical, irreverent, and, above all, deeply self-aware of its own constructed reality. It’s made for the girls who know their outfit will be talked about—and wear it anyway. It’s for the girls who don’t just get dressed but find in every piece of clothing an opportunity to play a role and become somebody, or even something, else.
“There’s playing a role, and then there’s us playing a role as fashion designers,” Bryn Taubensee comments. It’s a key distinction for understanding the collection. The designers begin with characters we already know — the chef, the maid, the waiter, the glamorous girl — and then rewrite them through their own logic. That is where a uniform becomes the fantasy of a uniform. A waiter becomes a Vaquera waiter. A classic shoe becomes a prop. The clothes aren’t references to something else; they’re fictional versions of something we already recognise.
The accessories play an important role in that transformation. Oversized hats and gloves, two-tone shoes, patent leather bags, cigarette holders and even the act of chewing gum become part of the character-building. They work almost like stage props, telling us not only who these women are, but how they want to be seen. Even the collaboration with Crocs fits this logic. Taking an instantly recognisable object and bringing it into the context of Paris Fashion Week feels very Vaquera: the ordinary becomes fashion fiction.
And then the colour takes over. If the first half of the collection builds its characters through black and white, leather, satin, tailoring and recognisable uniform codes, the ending turns up the volume. The same five models reappear in the same five glamorous dresses, but now in vivid, fluorescent shades that seem almost impossible to look away from. The neon works like a highlighter: it marks the clothes, the bodies and the entire fantasy as something deliberately excessive.
The final scene makes the whole idea even clearer. DiCaprio and Taubensee, the masterminds behind the brand, turn the show into a karaoke session, singing Sonny & Cher’s I Got You Babe surrounded by the models and their dresses, now brought to life in neon colours, while the rest of the cast makes its way back down the staircase. It’s funny, camp, theatrical and completely genuine at the same time. In an industry where most designers simply make a brief appearance at the end of the show to receive the customary applause, Vaquera chooses, once again, to perform differently.
