After a very busy fashion month, it's time to look back and find connections among the different proposals that allow us to understand what's in store for menswear next summer, aside from an imminent and menacing rise in temperatures that were already unbearable this time around. Heat was a main character not only in the streets but also on the runways, where we saw how garments try to adapt, or not, to the weather conditions and how colors, silhouettes, and materials portray how we want to feel and look, or rather, how brands want us to feel and look during the most vibrant time of the year. Some of these are an instant yes, while some others raise a series of questions about how accurate the reflection of what we see on the models is compared to what we actually need and want. Here are some of the most recurring concepts for Spring/Summer 2027.
Pants will NOT be needed
As seen on: Yohji Yamamoto, Saint Laurent, LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi, Soshiotsuki, Egonlab
During summer, the fewer clothes the better. Brands understood this and gave us what we wanted. The offer spans a variety of lengths and widths that range from the very comfortable and airy proposals of Yohji Yamamoto with oversized shorts that resemble skirts with a relaxed under-the-knee silhouette to the barely there Saint Laurent and Louis Gabriel Nouchi underwear that are meant to be worn for all the world to see. In between the extremes we find the classic with a twist interpretation of Soshiotsuki with a loose tailoring version of shorts and others where plaid boxers and shorts become the same piece or the minimalist and functional versions Egonlab offers in different lengths.
The perfect mix of vibrant colours
As seen on: Prada, Willy Chavarria, Auralee
The presence of bold, vibrant colours in fabrics has become an attribute in itself, and when interesting tonalities are combined in unexpected ways, a whole outfit can go from basic to interesting in a matter of seconds. Prada and Raf Simons have especially been known for a unique taste when coming up with interesting palettes, and this season was no exception, with total looks in the same tone interacting and contrasting with the accessories and complements in other colours. Other brands like Willy Chavarria and Auralee have also been using colour in interesting ways; the former takes advantage of the layering of garments to layer distinctive colours at the same time, and the latter uses a sophisticated approach where two or three different shades coexist well together, often accompanied by a more neutral tone to enhance the contrast.
Adapt for the heat, bring the tech in
As seen on: Rick Owens
It may seem like a novelty what Rick Owens presented on the Parisian runways alongside Adidas: special tracksuits with built-in cooling devices that couldn't seem more perfect for the occasion in the context of this heatwave that has been affecting us all, but in reality this technology has been implemented in Japan for more than two decades. These garments, made of insulating materials for the outer shell, with a built-in cooling vest and small fans incorporated in the piece, are most commonly known as 'fan-jakketos' and have been most commonly used by Japanese outdoor workers who had to bear the extreme conditions of the Asian country during summer and found relief in this technology and a much healthier way to keep working. Now it seems the time has arrived for our side of the world to explore these advanced and more conscious ways of surviving the extreme conditions we are starting to face, becoming more than a trend: a necessity.
Using certain materials for the wrong season?
As seen on: Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Prada, and many more tbh
A big contrast from the previous point and a nonsensical trend that has always been present but that this year, thanks to the context of the season and the 40°C of it all, was made more evident is the use of clearly non-summer materials for summer. One could only imagine the stress seeing someone in full leather must signify for the front rowers already facing the horrors of the lack of AC in many of the show venues, but the thought of summer collections including garments that will only make the suffering worse is becoming very hard to digest and is creating a conversation regarding the lack of connection between some of the proposals and the reality of our world. What could possibly be the result of wearing some of Saint Laurent's fully transparent PVC shoes other than turning the transparency into a foggy, humid mess? And the purpose of featuring knitwear and wool duffle coats like in Louis Vuitton or leather total looks like the ones in Prada other than sweating like there's no tomorrow? Much to re-evaluate, but still omnipresent, so I guess it’s a trend?
Chest!
As seen on: Garcias, Paul Smith, Dries Van Noten
No shirt is meant to be buttoned to the top during summer, and showing some skin never hurt anybody. The stylistic choice of exposing the chest is in and taken to the extreme, like we saw at Garcias, where the light knitwear is barely held in place by the last two buttons, leaving not only the chest but also the entire torso exposed. Paul Smith presents a slightly safer version of this with tailored suits paired with classic shirts with the upper buttons undone in a still daring way, and Dries Van Noten joins in by showing skin but with loose, silky blouses instead of shirts, where the neckline falls around the middle of the chest or below.
Tie/bow-tie adjacents
As seen on: Sacai, Egonlab, Soshiotsuki, Dior
Unsurprising in menswear, ties have been having a strong presence once again, with at least one appearance in most of the shows. However, the reinvention of this ubiquitous piece is always interesting to see, and this season we see a reinterpretation of both the tie as an accessory itself and also the function or the role it accomplishes within the total look. A great example of this exploration can be found at Sacai, where we see the area that is often adorned by a tie embellished by other elements, like fringe tassels placed in the button placket of shirts as well as gathered more around the collar or by fabric ruffles placed in the same location. Egonlab plays with the pattern of shirts' plackets to make them peek out of the jackets in what, from a distance, looks like a tie in a similar way that Soshiotsuki does, but with the lining of the shirt being the one peeking out. At Dior what seems to be there is not actually there, with a trompe-l'oeil neckerchief embroidered onto the shirts.
Aristocracy with a twist
As seen on: Dior, Junya Watanabe, Celine
The possession of wealth, high status and fortune doesn't manifest itself aesthetically in 2026 the same way it did centuries ago, but the OG references are always present somehow, in a different way. Ever since his arrival at Dior, Jonathan Anderson has been interested in redefining aristocracy and building the image for the socialites of the present, and his last menswear collection continued to do so by giving a more dishevelled image to classic elegant attire and styling it with the nonchalant allure that's so sought after these days. At Junya Watanabe, the twist leans more towards the rebellious attitude for which the brand is known, taking royal-esque symbols — such as opulent jewellery, pearls, and silky fabrics in regal colours — and completely altering them to create streetwear and even sporty looks. Celine keeps it more within the margins but still dares to break the formal codes with vibrant colours, very loose or very slim fits and a more contemporary attitude while keeping the silhouettes elegant.
