Tom Ford S/S 2027

Two lovers giving each other pleasure, first her, then him… all set to a soundtrack featuring Tina Turner and David Bowie. Everything felt so ordinary because the feeling is entirely natural, yet here it was elevated into something sublime. The show unfolded like a timeline. After making love, the two lovers head off to work. They spend the whole day still carrying each other’s scent, their minds drifting back to the memory of what they shared. They feel irresistible as they leave the house, on their way to the office, while they work, and again when the day is over and night falls. It’s storytelling—or rather, it can be read as something completely ordinary, neither unreal nor fantastical, but a portrayal of that state of horniness in the most sophisticated way possible. That’s what Haider Ackermann has accomplished.

The power of a suit deserves to be studied: the sensations it creates and the effect it has on everyone around it. At least when it comes to Tom Ford suits. The show opens with a pinstripe suit, styled to draw as much passion as possible from the look. It’s an office look, but the mind is somewhere else—distracted, thinking about someone. Across the sixty-six looks presented by Haider Ackermann, not a single one needed to shout to convey sensuality.

Everything felt more like an experience than a traditional runway show: a full-scale performance. The models’ attitude was perfect—the way they walked, the way they looked at one another… everything felt incredibly hot. Because, in reality, being sultry is an attitude, and in this case, Tom Ford’s clothes embody that attitude to the fullest. The show continued in the same vein, alternating masculine and feminine looks, as well as more ambiguous ones, in a series of cocktail pieces made from black leather, all dark and intensely seductive. The runway itself was completely dark, with a fascinating play of light and shadow. Mirrors and glass surfaces were placed throughout the space, allowing the models to catch glimpses of their reflections as they walked.

The first pop of colour arrived in olive green, introducing a more casual, aviator-inspired look that eventually blended with tailored pieces such as blazers and suit trousers. A red flower tucked into the blazer pocket added the final touch—simple, unexpected, and magnetic. It isn’t until the model wearing the shimmering, silk-like bra looks at herself in the mirror that the experience the runway is meant to evoke comes fully into focus. By this point, there is a clear duality: Tom Ford’s signature elegance is unmistakable, but so is the sexiness that is inseparable from the house. It’s all there. One standout was the masculine look featuring a chestnut-coloured sweater with a pink thong, styled with a maxi bag and a blazer hanging from it, newspaper in hand. Everyday dressing pushed to the extreme, with that unmistakable Tom Ford eroticism underneath it all.

Little by little, the clothes begin to hint at the moment when red arrives and the show fully reveals its erotic charge. Red, the colour of passion, is impossible to leave out. It arrives almost like dessert, presented as the most tempting indulgence: from an effortlessly chic dressing gown to two spectacular evening dresses, before evolving into full-on club energy with dazzling, intensely shimmering pieces. Before the show comes to an end, we move through a series of white and off-white looks, making it clear that black isn’t the only colour that can be suggestive. Sometimes, we simply need to be reminded of the power of sex, of being sexy as an attitude. Finally, the show returns to total black, where revealing skin becomes more literal, but always in a chic way. The finale brings the swimsuits: all black, made with minimal fabric, revealing exactly what they choose to reveal and playing with the eye. They feel made more for being admired than for swimming.

This collection says so much without ever saying a word. Every detail feels meticulously considered to evoke exactly what it sets out to express. From the casting, which mixes younger faces with more mature models who embody that rich, sexy Tom Ford essence, to the styling, with slicked-back hair or completely natural textures that make everything feel incredibly real and hot. Even among the guests, Shakira appeared in a revenge dress that perfectly captured the spirit of the show: hot, confident, and natural.

And maybe that’s what makes the whole show so compelling. Seduction runs through the collection, but it is never forced or exaggerated. Desire, freedom, and sensuality emerge naturally in every detail: the way the body is exposed, the way a look lingers, the suggestion that something has just happened or is about to happen. Tom Ford proves that sexuality can be understated and still incredibly intense. Here, being sexy is less about provocation than about presence, confidence, and knowing exactly what to reveal and what to leave unseen.