If Demna is applauded for anything, it’s for knowing how to make a statement — and that’s exactly what he’s done with the unexpected drop of his debut collection for Gucci. Originally set to be unveiled in a day’s time during Milan Fashion Week, it seems that timeline just wasn’t fast enough for the Georgian designer. The internet is already flipping out; and, dare we say, with good reason.
“Unapologetically sexy, extravagant, and daring.” These words mark the genesis of a new Gucci era — and they describe it perfectly. The collection, titled La Famiglia, is a study in what we might call the ‘Gucciness’ of the House: a reinterpretation of its codes, an exploration of its mindset, and an evolution of its aesthetic language. Demna has clearly done his homework. What he’s now showing is both a deep understanding of Gucci’s essence, and his ability to interpret it with style.
Presented as a series of framed portraits by Catherine Opie, the collection introduces singular personalities and distinctive aesthetic attitudes: the result of deconstructing the many facets of the House, and what Gucci truly is. Its roots as a luxury leather goods brand are acknowledged right away with L’Archetipo, a monogrammed travel trunk, opening the lookbook before the narrative begins to unfold.
We then meet La Bomba in a shoulder-padded leopard fur coat and sky-high heels; The Nerd, wearing a leather jacket and sweater vest reminiscent of Gucci’s 1970s green-and-red stripes; or La Principessa, in a dramatic pink gown with feather detailing, embodying the art of being the centre of attention. In this family, we find characters that ooze pure sex appeal, while others channel high-drama elegance with theatrical flair.
There’s a clear reconnection with heritage, but without losing spectacle. Gucci’s iconic codes aren’t abandoned; they’re reimagined and pushed into new territory. Logos (including the double G), classic tailoring, and archival elements return, but with twists: exaggerated shoulders, sweeping gowns, long-hem suits, and ultra-low-rise trousers. Demna’s fashion language is unmistakable: irony and humour fused with bold silhouettes, oversized cuts, and a calculated appeal to both insiders and the masses. In the tightly controlled world of high fashion, Demna is chaotic, unpredictable, and refreshingly original.
Gucci is undoubtedly a House with deep history and heritage, but it’s no secret that its sales have been slipping. Under Sabato De Sarno, the brand leaned into a more classical, clean aesthetic. Beautiful? Yes. But perhaps it lost some of its edge. Could Demna be the one to give Gucci its power back, tapping into a younger, fashion-forward audience while preserving its luxury status? Only time will tell. But for now, we’re watching — and we’re intrigued.
